Monumental JavaScheltema, J. F. (Johann Friedrich )
History
Monumental Java
Scheltema, J. F. (Johann Friedrich )
Indonesia -- Antiquities; Java (Indonesia) -- Antiquities; Monuments -- Indonesia -- Java
Waking up the morning after my first arrival, feeling cold, though
the scene my eyes met was not quite so severely wintry as that just
described, my dreams seemed to continue in reality. I beheld a tranquil
plain different in its bright serenity from everything I had so far seen
anywhere else, the Bimo temple rising to the left and the Arjuno group
to the right, sharply outlined against the hills and the sky, their
dark-gray colour in wonderful harmony with the verdure of earth and
the blue expanse of heaven. One moment they appeared near in the clear
atmosphere as if I could seize them with my hand, and then again very,
very far, never to be approached. A vapour, clinging to the slope of
the Pangonan in the direction of the Kawah Kidang, reminded me of the
tremendous cosmic energy entering into the composition of this soothing
stillness, this tonic for the sick and worried, with the certainty of
annihilation as final pledge of freedom. Once a lake of seething lava,
the plateau lies enclosed by the tops of five mountains, the Prahu,
Sroyo, Bismo, Nogosari and Jimat, 2050 metres above the level of the
sea; the Pangonan and Pagar Kandang are old eruptive cones, formed
of the mud and sand thrown out, which accumulated at their bases and
raised the surrounding ground. The plateau in its narrower sense is
now a flat stretch of turf, in places, especially in the middle, a
morass, called the Rawa Baleh Kambang for its northern, and the Rawa
Glonggong for its southern part. Ruins have been found everywhere in
the plain and up the slopes of the hills, even up to the summit of the
Prahu. Here stand stone posts in a row, used by Arjuno, according to
the legend, to tether his elephants, while his cows, after grazing on
the Pangonan, were corralled for the night in the hollow of the Pagar
Kandang, lit. “fence of the cattle-pen”; there, as in Diëng Kidool,
layers of ashes among the slags and other debris, mark the situation
in the past of the burning-grounds, which yield a steady harvest of
bronze and gold finger-rings, bracelets, anklets and other objects of
personal adornment. Ancient aqueducts, walls, staircases, foundations of
secular buildings, clustered round the temples, remains of an important
religious centre, so various and rich that Junghuhn did not exaggerate
when calling them inexhaustible, suggest the existence, once upon a
time, in those mountain wilds, of a Javanese Benares, minus the Ganges
but plus a setting of unceasing volcanic activity, which demolished it
by a sudden, violent outbreak. Such suggestions need only the seconding
of one of the learned to be utterly ridiculed by his equally learned
brethren of an opposite school.... We will let the matter rest at
that and simply enjoy the actual calm of a landscape evidently exposed
to destruction at the shortest notice, of nature recuperating from
outrageous debauch.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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