A night expedition is always alluring; and besides, I had wanted to see
this particular festa for years, so I took one of the servants with me,
a broad-shouldered woman of the people, strong enough to carry me if
need be, and we set out, in a carrozzella, on a moonless night towards
nine o’clock. Very soon we had left Sorrento and its lights behind
and were climbing by steep, narrow roads into the wild mountains that
cluster round Monte Sant’ Angelo. The chain of the Abruzzi that runs
out into the sea as the backbone of the Penisola rises sharp and high
from the rounded cup of the Piano di Sorrento, and, elsewhere, gives
way but little on either side to the needs of men. From the “Piano” and
the narrowing strip of level land, the cliffs facing the north plunge
clear into the water, which has worn them into huge caves, each with
its tiny cove of sand, divided from one another by great out-standing
buttresses of rock. As soon as one turns inland one is lost in the
twisting defiles that scar the mountains through and through; and the
deep old roads, narrow and steep, crawl up away from the regions of
vines and olives till they reach wild, empty highlands where only the
hardiest shrubs and flowers will grow.
It is an impressive experience to travel through these forgotten roads
on a starlit night, farther and farther from the sound of the sea and
the haunts of men. The loneliness is enormous; earth recedes from
sight and one is conscious of very little except that unfathomable
sky overhead, dripping and sprayed with live silver to its farthest
faintest depths, while some gorgeous planet of our own system wheels
its way between crag and crag as one moves along. Broom and wild
rosemary reach out from the wall of rock to brush your face; a tang
of bitter sweetness, clear as an exclamation, fills your nostrils for
an instant, and you know that you are passing a clump of immortelles
hidden in a cleft you cannot see.
And then the wild power of it all goes to your head; you are not a
modern mortal with a thousand anchors fastening you to the scrap-heap
of the workaday world, but a newborn princess of romance, travelling
through the hills of fairyland to take possession of your unknown,
enormous castle; its thousand windows are glowing gold beyond that
last peak, all lighted up for your reception; in its deep courts and
airy bowers invisible subjects will minister to your wants. In a high
tower looking south all the great books in the world are waiting to be
read; there is a terrace a hundred feet from the ground, perfumed and
trellised, where you can watch the stars; and not a single creature in
the whole world will ever find the way to the castle!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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