Naples in anarchy—Entrance of Austrians—Murat’s repulse by Napoleon and by Louis—His demon of ill-luck—Shipwrecked—Aid in Corsica—Emperor of Austria’s proposal—Attempt against Naples—Murat betrayed into Ferdinand’s hands—Murat’s “trial”—Letter to his wife—Before his “judges”—A brave death—Ferdinand, the “Butcher King” pp. 313-328 CHAPTER XVII ITALIAN SEAS Our moods and the seas—Memories in landscapes—The healing of the sea—A vision in the Bay of Naples—Marion Crawford’s yacht expected—The family together at Leghorn—Lady Paget—A bathing scene—Hugh Fraser—“Spannocchi” for dinner—The avenging boatman—Livorno, an anomaly—Sunset on the Mare Ligure—Bay of Spezia, a splurge of colour and light—A hail-storm in Venice—The joy of a gondola—Moods of Venice—A Giorgione beauty—The nurseries of Venice—Her shops—Saints and heresies of the thirteenth century pp. 329-353 CHAPTER XVIII SOUTHERN SHORES Melancholy Ravenna—Early Byzantine architecture—Forests of stone-pine—Smiles and tears—The need of a little misfortune—Monte Gargano—Millions of Spanish merinos—Primæval forest—A forest miracle—Church of the Apparition of St. Michael—Other apparitions of the Archangel—The revelation to St. Aubert—The great round church—Order of the Knights of St. Michael—A “maiden” fortress of France pp. 354-365 INDEX pp. 366-372 ILLUSTRATIONS VENICE: THE GRAND CANAL _Frontispiece_ FACING PAGE ST. BENEDICT 24 ST. GREGORY 44 ROME: THE PANTHEON 62 PIUS IX 82 PIUS IX IN LATER LIFE 106 PIUS VII 132 QUEEN JOAN OF NAPLES 200 CLEMENT VI 260 NAPLES: CASTEL DELL’UOVO 264 THE TOMB OF QUEEN JOAN 274 JOACHIM MURAT, KING OF NAPLES 288 CAROLINE BUONAPARTE, QUEEN OF NAPLES 310 LIVORNO 332 TORCELLO: THE CATHEDRAL AND THE CHURCH OF ST. FOSCA 344 RAVENNA 354 MORE ITALIAN YESTERDAYS CHAPTER I SAINTS OF THE CHURCH