Produced by Jens Nordmann, Greg Bergquist and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) Transcriber's Notes: The original spelling and minor inconsistencies in the spelling and formatting have been maintained. Corrections applied to the original text have been listed at the end of the text. The ligature oe has been marked as [oe]. The macron above a letter has been marked as [=letter]. Text in italics has been marked with underscores (_text_). * * * * * [Illustration: _The Summit._] MOUNT EVEREST THE RECONNAISSANCE, 1921 By Lieut.-Col. C. K. HOWARD-BURY, D.S.O. AND OTHER MEMBERS OF THE MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION _WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS_ LONGMANS, GREEN AND CO. 55 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK LONDON: EDWARD ARNOLD & CO. 1922 PREFACE The Mount Everest Committee of the Royal Geographical Society and the Alpine Club desire to express their thanks to Colonel Howard-Bury, Mr. Wollaston, Mr. Mallory, Major Morshead, Major Wheeler and Dr. Heron for the trouble they have taken to write so soon after their return an account of their several parts in the joint work of the Expedition. They have thereby enabled the present Expedition to start with full knowledge of the results of the reconnaissance, and the public to follow the progress of the attempt to reach the summit with full information at hand. The Committee also wish to take this opportunity of thanking the Imperial Dry Plate Company for having generously presented photographic plates to the Expedition and so contributed to the production of the excellent photographs that have been brought back. They also desire to thank the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company for their liberality in allowing the members to travel at reduced fares; and the Government of India for allowing the stores and equipment of the Expedition to enter India free of duty. J. E. C. EATON } A. R. HINKS } _Hon. Secretaries._ CONTENTS PAGE INTRODUCTION. By SIR FRANCIS YOUNGHUSBAND, K.C.S.I., K.C.I.E., President of the Royal Geographical Society 1 THE NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION By LIEUT.-COL. C. K. HOWARD-BURY, D.S.O. CHAP.