Mount Everest, the Reconnaissance, 1921Howard-Bury, Charles
History
Mount Everest, the Reconnaissance, 1921
Howard-Bury, Charles
Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1921)
Early in May most of the members of the Expedition had assembled at
Darjeeling. Mr. Raeburn had been the first to arrive there in order to
collect as many coolies of the right type as he could. I had come out a
few weeks earlier in order to visit the Indian Authorities at Simla and
to make sure that there were no political difficulties in the way. There
I found every one very kind and helpful and all were anxious to do their
best to assist the Expedition. Owing to the heavy deficit in the Indian
Budget, the expenses of every Department had been rigorously cut down,
and the Government of India were unable to give us financial assistance.
They agreed, however, to take upon themselves the whole of the expenses
of the survey, and to lend the Expedition the services of an officer of
the Geological Department. The Viceroy, Lord Reading, who, together with
Lady Reading, took the greatest interest in the Expedition, kindly gave
us a subscription of 750 rupees, and at Darjeeling the Governor of
Bengal, Lord Ronaldshay, had not only put up several members of the
Expedition at his most comfortable house, but had also given the
Expedition several rooms in which to collect their stores for separation
and division into loads. Local stores, such as tea, sugar, flour and
potatoes had to be bought on the spot. Coolies had to be collected and
arrangements made for fitting them out with boots and warm clothing. The
coolies were to receive pay at the rate of 12 annas per day while in
Sikkim, and when in Tibet were to receive another 6 annas per day,
either in cash or the equivalent in rations. The former proved the most
acceptable eventually, except during the period when the coolies were
up on the glaciers, where there were no villages and consequently
nothing could be bought.
A passport had been sent to us by the Government at Lhasa under the seal
of the Prime Minister of Tibet, of which the following is a
translation:--
_To_
_The Jongpens and Headmen of Pharijong, Ting-ke, Khamba and Kharta._
You are to bear in mind that a party of Sahibs are coming to see the
Chha-mo-lung-ma mountain and they will evince great friendship towards
the Tibetans. On the request of the Great Minister Bell a passport
has been issued requiring you and all officials and subjects of the
Tibetan Government to supply transport, e.g. riding ponies, pack
animals and coolies as required by the Sahibs, the rates for which
should be fixed to mutual satisfaction. Any other assistance that
the Sahibs may require either by day or by night, on the march or
during halts, should be faithfully given, and their requirements
about transport or anything else should be promptly attended to. All
the people of the country, wherever the Sahibs may happen to come,
should render all necessary assistance in the best possible way, in
order to maintain friendly relations between the British and Tibetan
Governments.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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