The Summit _Frontispiece_ Chomolhari from the South 46 Loading up at Dochen 50 Kampa Dzong 54 Tinki Dzong 58 Gyangka Range from near Chushar 62 Shekar Dzong 66 The Abbot of Shekar Choete 68 Military Governor, his Wife and Mother 100 The Dzongpen of Kharta and his Wife 106 Lamas of Kharta Monastery 110 Makalu from 21,500-foot peak on ridge south of Kama-chu 112 Makalu and Chomoloenzo 114 Cliffs of Chomoloenzo from camp at Pethang Ringmo 116 The Kama Valley 118 Sea of cloud from peak north of Kama Valley. Kanchenjunga in distance 138 Chomoloenzo from the alp below the Langma La, Kama Valley 150 Members of the Expedition 178 Cho-Uyo 190 Summit of Mount Everest and North Peak from the Island, West Rongbuk Glacier 210 Mount Everest from the Rongbuk Glacier, nine miles north-west 214 Summit of Mount Everest and South Peak from the Island, West Rongbuk Glacier 218 Pethang-tse 222 Summit of Makalu 226 South-east Ridge of Mount Everest from above the 20,000-foot camp, Kharta Valley 230 North-east of Mount Everest and Chang La from Lhakpa La 246 Mount Everest from the 20,000-foot camp--wind blowing snow off the mountain 278 Temple at Lapche Kang 286 Gauri-Sankar 288 Lower Kama-chu 290 Junipers in the Kama Valley 294 Forest in the Kama Valley 300 Mount Everest at sunset from the 20,000-foot camp, Kharta Valley 316 LIST OF MAPS