Mount Everest, the Reconnaissance, 1921Howard-Bury, Charles
History
Mount Everest, the Reconnaissance, 1921
Howard-Bury, Charles
Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1921)
The first march was to Nezogu, where there was a bridge over the
Kyetrak; this was about 19 miles, partly across the Tingri Plain and
then over a tiresome moraine. While crossing the moraine, I shot a goa
which had quite a good head. Wheeler had accompanied me, as he had left
his camp at the bridge, and on arrival there we found his tents all
pitched and his cook waiting ready to receive us. Our own kit did not
arrive till it was getting dark, when the weather looked very ominous.
Rain fell steadily most of the night, and just before dawn this turned
to snow, so that when we woke up there were a couple of inches of fresh
snow on the ground. As it was still snowing steadily, we were in no
great hurry to start, and did not get off until nine o'clock. The
weather than gradually improved and the fresh snow soon melted, though
the ground was left in a very boggy condition. The march to Choebu was
about 15 miles over the easy Lamna Pass. Knowing the way, I climbed on
to a ridge to the South, where I had a fine view again of Mount Everest
and the Rongbuk Valley. We pitched our camp on the far side of the
Rongbuk River, our loads being carried across the frail bridge by the
villagers, and our ponies being swum across. Here Mallory and Bullock
joined us. They had been experiencing latterly very bad weather in the
Upper Rongbuk Valley, and constant heavy falls of snow had seriously
hindered their reconnaissance work. Their coolies, too, were getting
rather tired and stale from remaining at such heights for a considerable
time, and were badly in want of a rest. I had therefore arranged for
them to meet me here and to accompany me round to Kharta, from which
place they could then explore the Eastern approaches of Mount Everest.
During the night I suffered much from inflammation of the eyes, due to
the snow that had fallen the day before. They were so painful as to make
sleep quite impossible. I was not, however, the only one to suffer, as
Chheten Wangdi, the interpreter, Acchu, the cook, and several of the
coolies that were with me were all suffering from the same complaint in
the morning. Though the sun had not been shining and the day had been
misty, the glare from the new snow had been very much more powerful than
anything we had expected and taught us a lesson that whenever there was
the slightest fall of snow, we should always wear our snow goggles. From
Choebu we marched to Rebu--a distance of about 15 miles. Knowing the way,
I took Mallory and Bullock by the upper road over a pass to Halung; from
the top of this pass we branched off on to a spur where there was a very
fine view of Mount Everest and the mountains to the North and North-east
of it. There had been so much fresh snow everywhere that it was often
very difficult to recognize the peaks, but Mount Everest from this side
looked as impossible as ever with the great black bands of perpendicular
cliffs that seemed to encircle it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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