Mount Everest, the Reconnaissance, 1921Howard-Bury, Charles
History
Mount Everest, the Reconnaissance, 1921
Howard-Bury, Charles
Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1921)
The day was actually fine and the march was a pleasant one through a
fertile valley full of fields of barley, mustard and peas. The wild
flowers all round Rebu were still very beautiful. Our camp was pitched
on a grassy spot on the bank of a rushing stream and close to the
village of Rebu.
The following morning the weather was again fine, and as the yaks were
all ready for us, we were started by 7.30 a.m. This start was quite
amusing; we ourselves had first to cross a flooded stream over which
there was a very wobbly stone bridge. With much excitement and noise the
yaks were then driven across the stream, but the current was too strong
for the bullocks, which had to be unloaded and their loads carried over.
While this was being done, the bridge collapsed, and a good lady and a
bullock that were trying to get over by the bridge all fell into the
water together. There was then a terrible excitement and mix-up, every
one shouting and screaming, but they both scrambled safely to the shore,
and beyond a wetting, no one was any the worse. We then took the road
that I had travelled three weeks before over the Doya La. Knowing that
there was a good view to be got from the top of the pass, I hurried
ahead and climbed a rocky hill, 17,700 feet, close to the pass, where I
saw a wonderful scene. Range upon range of snowy mountains extended
right away to Kanchenjunga, and the course of the Arun could be traced
wandering down through Nepal, while to the South towered up the great
walls of Makalu. Mount Everest itself I could not see, as there were a
good many clouds about, but to the South-west were some fine snow and
rock peaks of which I took several photographs. I then basked in the sun
for a couple of hours and enjoyed the view. The wild flowers on the top
of the pass were delightful; I found three different kinds of gentians
and the blue poppies were as numerous as ever. The primulas, however,
had many of them already gone to seed, but the saxifrages still covered
the rocks, and it was a delight to wander along and note the different
varieties. Riding on to Chulungphu, we found tents pitched for us and
fuel and milk all ready. In place of the primulas the ground was now
carpeted with gentians. From here to Kharta the march was only a short
one, but we thoroughly enjoyed riding along between the bushes of wild
rose or juniper. The former were no longer in blossom, but there were
many other new varieties of flowers appearing. I rode on ahead to the
spot that I had chosen, three weeks previously, for our new base camp,
and I found that Hopaphema had already pitched some tents for us. He had
also prepared a meal for us and made every arrangement for our comfort.
Our camp was pitched under the willows and poplar trees in the garden,
and it was pleasant to hear the rustle of the leaves in the wind once
more. We were now at a height of only 12,300 feet, and the change in
altitude was a very great relief to the climbing party and the coolies
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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