It may have been by _Punch_; but against his churlish condemnation must be set the enthusiastic approval of Kate Greenaway's illustrations by leading art critics, including Ruskin, throughout the world; and the extraordinary success of her revival of old-fashioned costumes for children. In spite of _Punch_, and in virtue of the exquisite charm of her designs, she went a long way toward justifying the verdict of one of her admirers that "Kate Greenaway dressed the children of two continents." [Illustration: THE DANCING MAN SHE: "Awfully nice Dance at Mrs. Masham's last night?" HE: "Yaas. Were you there?" SHE: "_Was I there?_ Why--I danced with you Three Times!" HE: "Really! So glad!"] [Sidenote: _The Demon "Topper"_] Allusions to men's attire in this period are few and far between, and a careful study of _Punch's_ illustrations reveals little substantial divergence between the fashions of 1880 and 1920. The only approach to a crusade or campaign in which _Punch_ engaged was directed against his old enemy the "chimney pot." When Dr. Carpenter in 1882 declared that Englishmen "would rather suffer martyrdom than give up its use," _Punch_ enlarged on this text in an "anti-sanitary ballad." He reverts to the theme in "All round my hat" in 1889:-- Incarnate ugliness, bald, tasteless, flat, My stove-pipe hat! A rigid cylinder that engirts My cranium close, and heats, and hurts My head most frightfully. It cuts, it chafes, it raises lumps, Each vein beneath it throbs and thumps Fiercely and spitefully; An Incubus of woe, and yet I wear it And grin and bear it. Its pipy structure, black and hollow, Would make a guy of bright Apollo, Clapt on his crown. It takes one's top-locks clean away, And turns the scanty remnant grey, Once thick and brown. And oh! how terrible its torrid tether In sultry weather! Ever the same, though fashion's whim Wide-bell the body, curl the brim, Or more or less; Play little tricks with shape or size, And Yankeefy or Quakerize Design or dress, Long, short, broad, narrow, curled this way or that, 'Tis still a hat! The centenary of the tall-hat (according to the _Daily News_) arrived in 1890, and _Punch_ heaped scorn on this unlovely centenarian:-- Mad was the hatter who invented The demon "topper," and demented The race that, spite of pain and jeers, Has borne it--for One Hundred Years! For holiday or sporting wear Tyrolese hats came into vogue in the late 'eighties, and the picture of two "chappies" at Monte Carlo in what is presumably the height of the fashion presents them in check tweeds, spats and Austrian _jäger_ hats. The Homburg hat belongs to a slightly later period.