In the autumn of 1889 his engagement as tutor ended, and he spent the
winter in Odessa to study the language. He put himself, as usual, under
conditions where it was impossible to speak any other language; entered
a Russian family; prepared his questions in Russian when he shopped;
and addressed in Russian the official who delayed his necessary papers
until he had silently put down a bribe of two roubles, and who then
shook him warmly by the hand. He was full of tales; he told of the
English journalist, so aggressively and deliberately English that he
would not uncover before the Tsar's portrait in a hairdresser's shop; of
the Prince Abamélek, who was always talking of taking him out shooting,
but never did so; of the Princess, who feared that her little Paul was
"trop jeune encore pour profiter de son esprit eminemment cultivé"; of
the social tyranny of Russian orthodoxy, which drove free-thinking
persons of quality in the country to church and sacrament at all the
Christian festivals; and, finally, of his shortness of funds which
forced him to find his way home in humble style.
As an English liberal, Johnstone was naturally a welcome guest in the
society of the Reform party; and on his return to England he was to meet
Stepniak at the house of their common friend, York Powell, and to enroll
himself among the Friends of Russian Freedom. But he was more in
sympathy with the members of the Reform movement than with their
objects. While in Russia, such connections secured him a mild
surveillance on the part of the officials, and he had a little
difficulty in obtaining the necessary passport to leave the country; but
these vexations did not prevent him from holding that a paternal
government was required in Russia, and that his countrymen as a whole
were to blame for their harsh judgment of a civilisation merely because
it ran counter to their own political ideals. The late Bishop Creighton
arrived at precisely the same conclusion after his visit to Russia to
attend the Coronation in 1896.
[Illustration: AGED 26.]
On his way home he spent some months in Buda-Pesth, Vienna, and the
Tyrol, and made his first visit to Bayreuth and the Passion Play at
Oberammergau.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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