My experiments with volcanoesJaggar, Thomas Augustus
Science
My experiments with volcanoes
Jaggar, Thomas Augustus
Geologists -- Biography; Volcanoes
Looking for a luncheon beer garden in Zurich, I picked up a small
side-whiskered Englishman, and suggested we join a group of foreign
geologists in a buffet. “Oh no,” he replied, “no beer. I only want a
cup of tea and a biscuit.” So I left him and crudely and youthfully
joined the younger men in the beer parlor for sauerkraut and wienies
and Munich beer. Later at the opening meeting, the Geological Congress
was addressed in French by the famous Sir Archibald Geikie, Director
General of the Geological Survey of Great Britain and Ireland, and the
author of “The textbook of geology,” the greatest of geology manuals.
He was my pickup, whom I had deserted at lunch time. I had lost the
opportunity of a lifetime, for a tête-a-tête with the world’s most
famous geologist.
Before going to Munich, Harry Gummeré of Haverford and I trekked
through Denmark in a third class carriage amid peasants smoking
fearful-smelling tobacco in long china-bowl pipes. Then we crossed to
Christiansand in Norway. We traversed the fjords north to Trondhjem
by rowboat, in “stoolcars” with little girl drivers. Then we traveled
on foot, and everywhere in rain. Waterfalls were so numerous we never
wanted to hear of another one. We climbed up to Stalheim from Bergen,
saw the Jordalsknut, a magnificent half dome in a vast granite canyon
like Yosemite. We rowed around the Kaiser’s yacht in the Nordfjord,
and tried to pick him out on deck. We got soaked with days of rain in
a backcountry village, and went to the inn, got into bed, and sent our
clothing to dry in the kitchen.
The local Norwegian bank looked at our Brown Brothers letter of credit
and said, “Nothing doing,” which inspired us to compose a poem:
We’re so happy we don’t know what to do.
We haven’t any clothes to wear,
We’re wet all through and through.
We haven’t any money and we ought to feel quite blue
But we don’t, we feel so happy, we don’t know what to do.
Fortunately, the innkeeper was amused by our poem and sympathetic
toward our plight. He took our IOU’s and told us we could have all the
money we wanted and to send it back when we reached Trondhjem.
From Trondhjem we crossed Scandinavia by rail to Stockholm, like Venice
a city of canals. Delightful maiden ladies kept the breakfast place
and served us with many queer breads, goats’-milk cheese, and sublime
cleanliness. The canal boat took us across Sweden to Göteborg. It was
a little steamer, from the porthole of which we saw a cow comfortably
grazing a few feet away. And we saw and were impressed by the superb
landscaping of lawns, by tree horticulture, and by lock masonry. In
both Norway and Sweden the people talked English, the national costumes
were delightful, the girls were pretty, and everybody was clean and
democratic.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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