Honolulu is built on an extensive flat, of great fertility. The town
is pretty, and wears a tropical look; but, since the time of which
I write, its buildings and surroundings have been greatly improved.
Groves of cocoa-nut trees, with their long feathery leaves, and tall
graceful trunks, were growing here and there in the vicinity of the
town, and trees of other kinds were also abundant in and around it.
Behind Honolulu stretches what is called the Nuuanu valley, a beautiful
country, which, even when we first visited it, was selected as a proper
locality for the villas and country residences and gardens of the
officers of the government, the missionaries and merchants.
On the right of the harbor of Honolulu is "Punch Bowl Hill," a large
hill where once a volcano burned, but which is now extinct. The name is
very suitable, for the volcano has left it more in the shape of a punch
bowl than anything else.
While yet some miles from the mouth of the harbor we met several
canoes, containing natives of the islands, who were out fishing. These
canoes were merely logs hollowed out; but they were easily managed,
and, with the aid of sails, their progress through the water was very
rapid. To prevent their turning over, they had outriggers fastened to
their sides.
A coral reef, over which the sea breaks with a tremendous roar, even
in calm weather, extends nearly around the harbor of Honolulu. The
entrance is very narrow, and seemed difficult of access, and as we
entered, guided by a skillful pilot, a man was kept busy throwing the
lead to learn the depth of the water. On the reef were the wrecks of
several vessels. The water was beautifully clear, and it was easy to
distinguish the bottom as we sailed along.
No sooner was the anchor dropped than the decks were crowded with
natives; some trying to sell bananas, oranges, cocoanuts, melons and
other fruits (this was in the month of December), and others anxious
to take us ashore. The monotonous character of their language, their
rapid utterance, their numerous gestures, caused us to watch them with
interest. We thought them a strange people. I little thought at that
time that I would ever learn their language, or become as familiar
with their customs as I afterwards did; for, though we had been sent
on missions to the Islands, we supposed our time would be occupied in
preaching to the whites.
Our first duty, after securing lodgings, was to repair to a convenient
mountain, on the top of which we found a steep knob that rose suddenly
and formed a table of thirty or thirty-five feet in width.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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