He decorated my passport with a heliotrope inscription, naming the port
from which I’m to depart from France, the hotel in London, and my good
ship, and sent me into the next room, where a vice-consul confirmed the
military visé and relieved me of two francs.
The train leaves at seven to-morrow morning, and between now and then I
have only to pack and to settle with the hotel. The former chore will
be easy, for I possess just half as much personal property as when I
came. Parisian laundries have commandeered the rest.
_Monday, September 17. London._
With tear-dimmed eyes, I said farewell to Paris yesterday morning at
the unearthly hour of seven. There was not even a gendarme on hand to
see me off.
The trip from Paris to England is arranged with the customary French
passion for convenience. They get you out of bed at five to catch the
train, which arrives in the port at noon. The Channel boat leaves port
at ten o’clock at night, giving you ten solid hours in which to think.
Not ten either, for the last two are consumed in waiting for your turn
to be examined by the customs and viséed by the Authorities du Exit.
Customs examination in this case is a pure waste of time. The gentleman
only wants to know whether you are trying to smuggle any gold money
out of France. I’d like to see the departing guest who has any kind of
money left to smuggle.
The Authorities du Exit are seven in number. They sit round a table,
and you pass from one to the other until something has been done to you
by each. One feels your pulse, another looks at your tongue, a third
reads your passport right side up, a fourth reads it upside down, a
fifth compares you with your photograph, a sixth inspects your visés
for physical defects, and the seventh tries to throw a scare into you.
I got by the first six easily. No. 7 read both sides of the passport
and then asked by whom I was employed. I told him.
“Where are your credentials?” he demanded.
“What do you mean, credentials?”
“You must have a letter from the magazine, showing that it employs you.”
“You’re mistaken. I have no such letter.”
He looked very cross. But there were others left to scare, so he
couldn’t waste much time on me.
“I’ll pass you,” he said, “but if you come back to France again, you
can’t leave.”
He and I should both worry.
But it does seem pathetic that the written and stamped approval, in
all colors of the rainbow, of the Paris chief of police, the American
consul, the British Military Control, the British consul, the French
consul in New York, and nearly everybody else in the world, including
our own Secretary of State, sufficeth not to convince a minor-league
official that an innocent native of Niles, Michigan, isn’t related by
marriage to the Hohenzollerns.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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