The last of the Swiftsure boats went by, long, long ago, and the later
generations of New Netherlander know not the joys of journeying on the
canal. Fortunately in the old Netherlands the water-highways are still
ways for travel as well as for traffic. The easygoing people of the Low
Countries, never in a hurry, are content to move at a moderate pace,
without fretting about speed, taking their comfort as they go. The
American, in their country, can find a diversion well worth considering
by setting aside a few days from the usual routine, and entering the
life of these good folk, far enough to take a trip or two in a
treckschuyt on the canals that form such an important factor of their
transportation system. Landing at Antwerp, for example, one could not
do better than to take a treckschuyt excursion at once, before the
bloom of anticipation has been rubbed off by the friction of much
sight-seeing. Antwerp is in Belgium, to be sure, but it is one of the
best of fair ports for arrival at the end of a Transatlantic voyage,
and from its crowded port a passage can be taken to almost any point in
the Netherlands, or, for that matter, in the four quarters of the
globe. From here, take a treckschuyt ride to Bruges, and another to
Ghent and anywhere else, as fancy dictates. Or suppose a stop is made
at The Hague—everyone goes to The Hague—short trips can be made to
Delft, Rotterdam and Dordricht, right in the middle of Holland, or, in
the other direction, to Leyden and on up to Amsterdam. However, it is
needless to write out an itinerary, as there are guide books enough
already. All places are interesting and all are accessible. The one
thing to be thought of is the going from one place to another by
treckschuyt. To have a good time, the traveler must be capable of
adjusting himself to his environment. He must put up with the ways of
the people as he finds them and not expect them to adjust themselves to
his ways, after the manner of the Englishman at the Pyramids, who
insisted that his Arabs should give him beef-sandwiches and Bass for
lunch. The Dutch are courteous and hospitable, but they have their own
notions, and by these they abide as against anything and everything
foreign and strange. If the American traveler can make a treckschuyt
voyage in the right spirit, he can have a pleasurable and valuable
experience, and he will be thankful for the suggestion here given.
It was a cold day, literally, and, for me, a cold day, figuratively,
when we finally set forth on our journey to Boston town. We made the
passage of the Hudson by Van Alstyne’s Ferry, landing at Bath, and
finding our way, somehow or other, to Greenbush, the terminus of the
railroad. The friends gathered to see us off, watched on the bank with
anxiety until we reached Bath in safety as there was ice running in the
river. The ice was about as thick as paper, but it was enough to awaken
new fears in the maternal heart as to the perils of the dreaded
journey.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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