The adventures that we had with this canoe were many and varied. On one
occasion, for instance, the canoe and I were suspected of being spies,
and came very near being bombarded. I had spent the afternoon in Venice,
leaving the canoe near the Giardino Pubblico. It was darker than usual
when I was ready to return to the Lido, and I carried no light; but I
set out for home undaunted. I had been paddling along serenely enough
for fifteen minutes or so, when, on nearing the powder magazine island,
or whatever it is between Venice and San Nicoletto that is guarded by a
sentry, I was partly awakened from my dreaming by a strenuous "_Chi va
la?_" on my left. I say partly awakened advisedly, because I paid no
attention to the challenge, and paddled on. It seemed impossible that
anybody could want to learn who I was out there on the water. Again the
words rang out, clear and sharp, and again I failed to heed them. The
third time the challenge was accompanied by an ominous click of a gun. I
came out of my dream like a shot. Why I should be challenged was
absolutely unintelligible to me, but that suggestive click jogged my
work-a-day senses back into action.
"_Amico! Amico!_" I yelled.
"Well, draw up here to the landing and let me look at you."
I put about and paddled over to the island, where the sentry detained me
nearly half an hour, making me explain how harmless and innocent I was.
I must needs tell him who my landlord was on the Lido, which room I
occupied in the empty house, why in the name of Maria I lived on the
Lido at all, and by what _maladetto_ right I dared cruise in those
waters without lights. He finally let me pass on, with the warning that
my craft stood a good chance of being sent to the bottom if she passed
that way again at night without the proper illumination.
One day this canoe foundered near the Giardino Pubblico, and the
accident brought to light a typical Italian trait in the _corporale_. I
thought that it was an exhibition of simple stubbornness at the time,
but Brown assured me later that I was mistaken. I was trying to manage
things when the canoe put her nose into the mud bank, and the
_corporale_ was in the garden, I think, looking on. He was slicked up in
his best uniform and looked very fine, but, as a sailor and part owner
of the canoe, I thought he should come to her aid in such a case of
signal distress. At first he also thought that he ought to bestir
himself in the matter, and carefully looked about to see if anybody was
watching. Then he picked his way more like a woman with fine lace skirts
on than like a man, let alone a sailor, to a dry spot within perhaps
thirty feet of the canoe. There he spent himself utterly in telling me
how to do what he could do a hundred times better from the shore. All
the canoe needed was a good, big shove, which he could have given her
without any great inconvenience. I urged him in spotless Italian to get
a real genuine move on and send me seaward.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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