"_Ma non--ma non_," he kept on whining, pointing to his highly polished
shoes and the mud--with which there was no need for him to come in
contact. At this juncture Brown and his gondolier hove in sight, and I
gave them the shipwreck signal. While they were coming to my rescue, the
_corporale_, again, like a mincing woman, got back into the garden. The
gondolier threw me a rope, and then towed me out of my predicament, the
_corporale_ watching the maneuvers, cat-like, from his vantage ground
above. I waved him adieu, and would not speak to him all of the next
day. Brown explained his conduct with the one word--_critica_. If there
is anything that Italians dislike, he told me, it is to be surprised by
their neighbors in predicaments that make them appear ludicrous. He said
that the _corporale_ would have let the canoe rot in her mud berth
before he would have subjected himself to the scrutiny of the onlookers
in an attempt to save her. The reason he retired to the garden so
quickly when Brown appeared was because he saw _critica_ coming his way.
I am afraid that a similar fright possessed him several weeks later,
when the canoe was blown through the Nicoletto Strait and out into the
billowy Adriatic, whence she never returned. I was not present when the
accident occurred, but "they" say that the _corporale_ was, and that all
that was necessary to save the canoe was to swim a short distance from
shore and tow her back. But the "public" was doubtless looking on, and
the _corporale_ was afraid of the critical comments and suggestions.
I had the most fun with the canoe, while she lasted, in the small,
narrow canals in Venice proper. Day after day, I cruised with her in
different parts of the city, exploring new routes and sections, lunching
where the hour overtook me, and in the evening paddled back to port on
the Lido, feeling very nautical and picturesque. The principal fun came
when I had to turn corners in the small canals. The gondoliers have
regular calls, "To the right," and "To the left," and by rights I should
have used them, too. But, somehow, all I could think of when surprised
at a turn by an oncoming craft was to cry "Wa-hoo!" at the top of my
voice, and then hug the side of some buildings till the danger had
passed. The way the gondoliers scolded me was enough to have frightened
a prizefighter, but I learned to expect scoldings and not to mind them.
On the Riva, where I was wont to forgather with many of them, they
finally got to calling me "Wa-hoo."
Of one of the Riva gondoliers I made quite an intimate, and when I moved
back to Venice from the Lido we were almost daily together, either on
the water or in his _sandalo_, or swapping yarns over a glass of wine
and _Polenta_ in some _osteria_.
On one occasion he came to me and said: "_Signor_, will you not
accompany me on a journey to the fine lace and glasshouses in Venice?"
I said: "Gladly."
He continued: "You will see many fine things in our lace houses and our
glass houses."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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