Brooke, Margaret, Lady, 1849-1936; Queens -- Malaysia -- Sarawak -- Biography; Sarawak (Malaysia) -- Description and travel
Malays and Milanoes have their settlements on or near the coast,
within reach of the tide. Malays are expert fishermen, and excel in
boat building. They are Muhammadans, and are the most civilized of the
Rajah’s subjects. Milanoes inhabit the Rejang delta, the river-banks of
Matu, Oya, Muka, and Bintulu, and are the sago workers of the country.
Though mostly Muhammadans, they have a curious superstitious religion
of their own. Land Dyaks dwell amongst the mountains and hills south of
Kuching; Sea Dyaks frequent the Batang Lupar, Saribas, Kalaka, and the
Rejang Rivers; Kayans live more inland, and their tribes are supposed
to have settlements right across from west to east of the northern
portion of Borneo; nor must we forget the Chinese immigrants who have
settlements all over the principality, and who invade it in increasing
numbers with every succeeding year, greatly adding to the prosperity of
the country. All these people are, as it were, sprinkled over the land.
If one could imagine a giant sower dipping into a bag filled with the
seeds of mankind and flinging it out haphazard by handfuls, some by the
sea, and some by the inland rivers and forests, it might give an idea
of the manner in which the population of Sarawak is scattered over the
country. The different tribes hold themselves entirely aloof from one
another; one never meets with Dyaks residing in Malay settlements, or
_vice versa_, nor do the Chinese build among people of an alien race.
It must be remembered that there are very few roads in Sarawak, and
as yet no railways; for it can well be understood that road-making
or laying down railway lines would be a costly undertaking in this
country, intersected as it is by marshes, hills, mountains, and almost
unbridgeable rivers. Commerce and trade, however, thrive without
the help of such accessories, for Borneo is known to be one of the
best-watered countries in the world, and the produce of its jungles and
its forests find an easy passage down the numberless canals and rivers
which nature has provided through this watery land. Indeed, it seems
to me that there are three things one cannot escape from in Sarawak:
these being mountains, trees, and water. The sound of water is heard
everywhere; houses are built for the most part on the banks of rivers
or streams, so that the tide, as it swishes backwards and forwards, is
heard by day and night; daily showers drip on to one’s habitation, and
the noise of paddles--for the people use the river as Europeans use
their streets--is never lacking. Even the animals seem to imitate the
sound of water in their morning and evening cries. For instance, the
little monkeys, called wah-wahs, give vent, at the first approach of
the sun, to liquid sounds, which, whenever I heard them, made me think
of the Spirit of the rain pouring refreshing streams through the trees
in which these monkeys congregate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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