After accepting an invitation for dinner that night, we walked out
through the town toward the Château, once the haunt of witty rulers,
philosophers, and of the fair and evidently too-amiable ladies beloved by
them. However, when we got into the great square of the palace I forgot
about them, for, looking up at the statue of Lasalle, born in Metz,
1775, and fallen at the battle of Wagram, 1807, were two Senegalese whom
_we_ looked at as the Lunéville populace might once have looked at the
camels the young Duke Léopold brought back with him from his wars with
the Turks. The juxtaposition was as strange. One of the Senegalese had
on a blue cap, the other a red. We gave each one a franc for cigarettes,
received large-mouthed, white-toothed smiles, and proceeded to look at
the remains of a German _avion_ which had fallen beside the statue the
day before, the most complete wreck possible. The aviator had been killed
and his broken wings were being removed to the Museum. It made me quite
still—there was something so complete about it all, the great Château in
the background, the statue of Lasalle, the two Senegalese, the shattered
Taube!
We walked on rather quietly over the bridge of the Vesouze to the Place
des Carmes—the Place Brûlée, as it is now called. The big Carmelite
convent which formed the square had been used as a barracks for a
generation or so, and one side had been burned with incendiary bombs
when the Germans left, while the other side was untouched. In the
middle was the statue of L’Abbé Grégoire (who made the mistake of being
ahead of his time), and on the pedestal are the words, “_J’ai vécu sans
lâcheté, je veux mourir sans remords_.” We stopped only a moment at the
church—eighteenth century, of course; fine old choir, delicate baroque
designs on the great wooden doors, and dominating towers in a lovely
reddish stone, with charming _motifs_ of urn and scroll, and flying
angels against the sky, or rather _in_ it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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