From there we passed into what had been a seminary until 1914, and one
of the rooms with rows of _lavabos_ (not of the eighteenth century, as
the colonel observed) looked out on the great plain of La Woèvre, and
again the fateful panorama was unrolled before us. In what had been a
council-room there was an old choir high up over the door, with a little
balcony giving a Spanish effect.
Coming out, at the north side of the church, an ancient Romanesque statue
of Adam and Eve on the outer hemicycle of the apse and some little
windows, also of pure Romanesque, were pointed out to us. In the ground
underneath the statue of Adam and Eve a great shell had opened up a Roman
foundation and walls, formed of immense square blocks of stone, hidden
during ages.
Near the church is the great Cour d’Honneur, once the house of the
bishop, a very perfect example of Louis XIV, making me think of
Versailles; but it, too, has received many a blow in its lovely heart.
One longed so to bandage up all those wounds of war, preserve in being
those lovelinesses of another age.
We then visited the house of Pope Julius II (I forget what he was doing
at Verdun), which, fortunately, has not suffered much up to now, though
it, too, is at the mercy of a shot—to-night, to-morrow, or the next day.
It would make a perfect museum, with its beautiful old door, bearing
inscription and date, through which one passes into a tiny V-shaped court
with a flowering linden-tree, and there are two romantic winding stone
stairways, with something Boccaccioesque about them, leading to the upper
stories.
Though it wasn’t an occasion in which to think how one felt, the flesh
_was_ weary by this time, and we went gladly back to the colonel’s
mess-room, where we had tea, or rather, to be exact, some ice-cold
champagne _coupé d’eau_, and some sort of madeleine, a specialty of
Verdun, which gave us the little flip-up that we needed. Another
specialty of Verdun is the _dragées_ (hard, sugared almonds), but the
factory, so one of the officers said, had been destroyed the year before
in one of the bombardments. Generations of tourists having broken their
teeth on them, however, we wasted no regrets.
The colonel begged us to stay for dinner, and the cinematograph
representation after, but we were obliged to regretfully decline, as
we had to pay our respects to the general at Y——, to whose courtesy M.
de S. owed the safe-conducts to Verdun. As we passed by we looked into
the long, narrow hall where the representations are given, the sight of
which the colonel offered as further inducement. It would have ennobled
for me forever that most boresome of modern things, had I assisted at one
underneath the citadel of Verdun. The hall was hung with flags of the
Allies. With sudden tears I saluted, ours waving among them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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