Composers -- France -- Biography; Massenet, Jules, 1842-1912
Our companions made us cross the ruins of the basilica of Constantine.
We could just make out the immense coffered vaults. Our admiration
changed to fright when we found ourselves a moment later in a place
entirely surrounded by walls of indescribably colossal proportions. In
the middle of this place was a large cross on a pedestal formed by
steps--a sort of Calvary. When I reached this point, I could no longer
see my companions and on turning back I found that I was alone in the
middle of the gigantic amphitheater of the Colosseum in a silence which
seemed frightful to me.
I tried to find a way which would lead me back to the streets where
some late but complacent passerby might direct me to the Villa Medici.
But my search was in vain. I was so exasperated by my fruitless attempts
that I fell on one of the steps of the cross overcome by weariness. I
cried like a child. It was quite excusable, for I was worn out with
exhaustion.
Finally, daylight appeared. Its rays showed me that I had gone round and
round like a squirrel in a cage and had come across nothing save the
stairways to the upper tiers. When one thinks of the eighty tiers which
in the time of Imperial Rome held a hundred thousand spectators, this
round of mine could easily have been endless for me. But the sunrise was
my salvation. After a few steps I was happy to see that, like Little Tom
Thumb lost in the woods, I was following the path which would take me on
the right road.
I reached the Villa Medici at last and took possession of the room which
had been reserved for me. The window looked out on the Avenue du Pincio;
my horizon was the whole of Rome and ended in the outlines of the dome
of St. Peter's at the Vatican. The Director, M. Schnetz, a member of the
Institute, took me to my room. He was tall and he had willingly wrapped
himself in a capacious dressing gown and had put on a Greek cap
bedizened, like the gown, with magnificent gold tassels. M. Schnetz was
the last of that generation of great painters which had a special
reverence for the country about Rome. His studies and pictures were
conceived in the midst of the Sabine brigands. His strong, determined
appearance made his hosts in his adventurous wanderings respect and fear
him. He was a perfect father to all the children of the Académie de
France at Rome.
The bell for luncheon sounded. This time it was the real cook who rang
it and not I who had been so kindly given the duty the evening before.
The dining room had taken on its comfortable every-day appearance. Our
companions were positively affectionate. The servants were no longer the
pseudo monks we had seen at the first meal. I learned that I had not
been the only one to be hoaxed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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