My three years in Manipur : $b and escape from the recent mutinyGrimwood, Ethel St. Clair
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My three years in Manipur : $b and escape from the recent mutiny
Grimwood, Ethel St. Clair
Grimwood, Ethel St. Clair, 1867-1928; Manipur (India)
We stayed two or three days in Silchar on our first arrival there and
made some new friends, and were fêted, as is the custom when new-comers
arrive at a station in India. Hospitality is a law, and you have only to
be English to be assured of a welcome from your fellow-countrymen, who
are ready to put themselves, their houses, and possessions all at your
service. There are disadvantages, maybe, to be met with in India which
are many and great, and one loses much by having to live out there;
but one never meets with such true-hearted kindness anywhere else as
in India. The narrow prejudices and questioning doubts as to who you
are, and what your station in life is, which assail you at home, vanish
entirely when you need hospitality out there. The civil list or the
army list will tell your position and income, and for the rest you are
English, you come from the old country, and all are glad to see you and
be kind to you. I am happy to think of the good friends made when I was
out there too—friends who were ready to share their pleasures with me,
and who were still more ready to help me when the dark days of trouble
came and human sympathy was so needed. Their names will ever live in my
heart, and may all good luck be theirs!
Our short stay in Silchar came to an end very soon, and we were on our
way to Manipur in real earnest by the end of the third day. The first two
marches out to the Jhiri were uneventful, and we then found ourselves
on the banks of the river, with a vast expanse of forest jungle before
us to be traversed the following day. Unluckily, it rained all that
night, and when the morning arrived it was still damp and drizzling. We
changed our coolies here, and got Nagas (hillmen) to carry the baggage.
They were fine-looking men, belonging to the various hill tribes about
Manipur. There were Kukis, Tongkhuls, and Kupoës, and they seemed to my
uninitiated eyes very alarming people indeed. They wore very few clothes,
and their necks were adorned with many necklaces made of gaudily-coloured
glass beads. Their ears were split to a hideous extent, and in the loops
thus formed they stuffed all kinds of things—rolls of paper (of which
they are particularly fond), and rings of bamboo, which stretched them
out and made them look enormous.
Their hair was cut in different ways. The Tongkhuls’ heads were shaved
with the exception of a ridge along the top, which extended to the nape
of the neck, and gave them the appearance of cockatoos.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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