Naples, Past and PresentNorway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
History
Naples, Past and Present
Norway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
Naples (Italy) -- Description and travel
Far back in the cave, where the blue shades are deepest, is a shelf of
rock, the only place within the grotto at which one can land. It is
usually occupied by a boy who pesters visitors by offering to dive in
return for as many francs as he can extort. The sight of his body in
the silvery water has excited various writers to high flights of
eloquence, one of them indeed assuring us that here alone we can
realise what we shall look like in heaven, when the grossness of our
bodies has been purged away into the radiance of ethereal light. If
this is so one should rejoice, though on more human grounds I regret
the presence of the boy, whose avarice detracts from the charm of the
grotto. The aspect of his body in the water is less wonderful than he
believes. Moreover, the shelf which he has turned into a bathing board
has a higher interest than any which it derives from him.
For at this spot, and this only, is conclusive evidence that other
eyes, in ages far distant from our own, have beheld this grotto,
though, for reasons to be given presently, it is practically certain
that those eyes saw a different sight. It is easy to discern a squared
opening, like a door or window, in the rock above the ledge. Probably
such visitors as notice it regard this as a modern contrivance to
serve some purpose of the guides; but it is not so. It stands
untouched since Kopisch saw it when he swam in half blinded by the
smoke. When he, first of all men of our age, climbed up on the rock
ledge and peered through the opening he felt confident that he had
found the secret exit from the palace of Tiberius at Damecuta; and
nothing has yet been discovered which disproves the possibility of
this.
The boatmen will have it that the passage goes to Anacapri. Mine was
positive upon the subject, and though constrained to admit that his
conclusion had not been proved, yet did not regard it as open to
discussion. Tradition has a certain value where proof is not
available; and as the passage is blocked at no great distance from the
grotto, it may be long before the boatman's faith is shaken. Kopisch
followed it as far as possible. He describes several corridors
radiating in different directions through the hillside, forming a sort
of labyrinth in which his party almost lost themselves, and in which
they were finally checked by the presence of mephitic vapours.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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