Naples, Past and PresentNorway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
History
Naples, Past and Present
Norway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
Naples (Italy) -- Description and travel
Now, whatever may be the secret of these passages, it scarcely admits
of doubt that they were designed for an entrance to the grotto from
the island. Capri is so thickly studded with Roman works of the
emperors Augustus and Tiberius, and possesses so few others, that
there is little risk in attributing the construction of this passage
to Roman hands. But what did the Imperial courtiers see, if they did
indeed come down those winding passages and stand on the rock shelf
where the greedy boy now bargains loudly for francs? Was it the same
blue wonder that we see? The answer is certain. The miracle of colour
depends directly on the level of the water, and in Roman days the arch
was far too high to permit the necessary refraction or colouration of
the rays of sunlight.
This is proved in two ways. Firstly, there is unanswerable evidence in
the hands of geologists and naturalists that the level of the sea in
Roman days was many feet lower than at present. Secondly, the fact
that there was more of the archway to be uncovered has been proved by
Colonel MackOwen, who explored it by diving, and who found not only
that the original height of the entrance was six feet and a half, of
which three feet are under water, but also that the base of the
opening is formed by a flat, projecting sill, which appeared to have
been set there by human hands. Moreover, this archway, which is now
the sole entrance to the grotto, is but a poor substitute for a more
ancient and incomparably larger doorway still existing, but now
submerged, and measuring as much as fifty feet by forty feet, which
must have let white sunlight into the cavern as long as it stood above
the water.
There is thus not much reason for supposing that Roman eyes ever
beheld this wonder of the world. Whether seen or not seen by an
occasional bold intruder, this unique marvel lay silent and unvisited
through all the Middle Ages, accounted even by our grandfathers as a
haunt of fiends and a centre of mysterious terrors. It is not easy now
to catch a moment in which the cave is silent. Only early in the
morning one may find its charm completely undisturbed, and carry away
a recollection of unearthly mystery and beauty which will remain a
precious possession throughout life.
There is much in Capri that is unparalleled. If I have set the Blue
Grotto first, that is not because more beauty is found there than
exists elsewhere upon the island. It may be beauty of a rarer kind; I
do not know. All Capri is a gem, and that which one sees from the
island is lovelier still than anything upon its shores.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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