CHAPTER VIII A GREAT CHURCH AND TWO VERY NOBLE TRAGEDIES 143 CHAPTER IX VESUVIUS AND THE CITIES WHICH HE HAS DESTROYED--HERCULANEUM, POMPEII, AND STABIÆ 178 CHAPTER X CASTELLAMMARE: ITS WOODS, ITS FOLKLORE, AND THE TALE OF THE MADONNA OF POZZANO 226 CHAPTER XI SURRIENTO GENTILE: ITS BEAUTIES AND BELIEFS 251 CHAPTER XII CAPRI 273 CHAPTER XIII LA RIVIERA D'AMALFI AND ITS LONG-DEAD GREATNESS 299 CHAPTER XIV THE ABBEY OF TRINITÀ DELLA CAVA, SALERNO, AND THE RUINED MAJESTY OF PÆSTUM 327 APPENDIX 345 INDEX 357 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Bay of Naples from the Vomero _Frontispiece_ PAGE Pozzuoli 24 Pozzuoli 32 Columns in the Serapeon Pozzuoli 35 Castle of Baiæ 44 Fishing Stage, Santa Lucia 54 Strada di Chiaia 68 Porta Mercantile 72 Boats at the Mergellina 76 Gradoni di Chiaia 78 Naples 90 Castle of St. Elmo 97 Old Town 113 Bay of Naples from San Martino 116 The Church of the Carmine 156 In the Strada di Tribunali 168 Card-players 188 A Slum 195 In the Strada di Tribunali 209 Porta Capuana 220 Roof top, Modern Naples 259 Courtyard in the Old Town 268 Unloading Boats, Bay of Naples 284 Naples: on the modern side, looking towards Capri from the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele 288 Gossip 334 NAPLES PAST AND PRESENT CHAPTER I THE APPROACH TO NAPLES BY THE SEA