Naples, Past and PresentNorway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
History
Naples, Past and Present
Norway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
Naples (Italy) -- Description and travel
Such tales as these blow about the world like balls of thistledown,
lighting now here, now there, and securing at each resting-place a
passionate belief. What is the truth of the fact common to both these
tales, and in what age and place are we to seek for it? The age of
Mediterranean folklore is past guessing, and the variety of races
which have dwelt upon the shores of the great inland sea should make
it the richest in the world.
Whilst we have been discoursing of the Rufoli the road, having climbed
over the shoulder of the hill above Atrani, has been slowly mounting
the valley of the Dragone, and at last it emerges on the small piazza
fronting the Cathedral of Ravello. By the time he attains this plateau
on the mountain-top the traveller will have seen enough of the
approach to set him pondering by what fact it happened that Ravello
ever grew into an important city. For nothing is more certain than
that the course of trade is not determined by caprice. Chance has no
part in it, and any man who wishes to understand the causes of the
rise or fall of cities must ask himself in every case what convenience
brought trade thither, or what inconvenience checked it. Now the
inconvenience of the situation in which Ravello lies is manifest, and
as the existing road was made out of a rough muletrack only in the
present generation, the difficulty of access either to Ravello or La
Scala must have been immense. Yet that difficulty did not deflect the
trade. Both cities were undoubtedly rich. La Scala is said to have
possessed one hundred and thirty churches, a statement which seems
incredible to-day, even if the outlying towns of Pontone and Minuto be
included in the number. D'Engenio enumerates no less than twenty-five
families of undoubted nobility at Ravello, and adds to his list the
words "et alii." At Scala he mentions only twelve. All abandoned these
hilltops centuries ago, leaving their palaces to decay. That is
scarcely strange. It is easy to understand why trade left this
half-inaccessible eyrie. The wonder is what brought it here. The city
had a great reputation for the dyeing of stuffs. Why did not the dyers
establish their vats at the foot of the hill, profiting by the
constant intercourse of Amalfi with other cities? I can see no other
reason for the growth of Ravello and La Scala than the paramount
necessity in the early Middle Ages of safety from sea rovers. It will
be impossible to verify this guess until some really scholarly man,
probably a German, elects to spend his learning in elucidating the dim
and tangled history of this most interesting coast. It would be a
noble task, and it is strange that some fine scholar has not been
attracted to the work ere now.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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