Naples, Past and PresentNorway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
History
Naples, Past and Present
Norway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
Naples (Italy) -- Description and travel
Probably the visitor who has just arrived in the cathedral piazza may
not immediately see with how great beauty Ravello has been adorned. It
is certainly no more than the wreck of what it once was. But this can
be said of so many Italian towns that the point may be scarcely worth
making. The cathedral once possessed a beautiful porch, approached
from the piazza by a double flight of seventeen white marble steps. It
has none now. Within is a lamentable scene of desolation, a church
once filled with glorious works of art among which rather more than a
century ago a bishop was allowed to work his will. An Anglican rector
with a passion for encaustic tiles could not have wrought more
mischief. The bishop's conception of beauty lay in the whitewash pot.
This simple ideal he worked out with such thoroughness that in all the
church only two half-figures remain of the noble frescoes which were
once its pride. The bishop looked round, saw that it was well, and
began on the mosaics, which were priceless and beyond all praise. The
most beautiful of these was probably the baldacchino which surmounted
the high altar. This the energetic bishop got rid of altogether,
unless it be the fact, as some suppose, that a few scraps of it are
embedded in the bishops throne. There were fifty-two choir stalls of
carved walnut wood. They dated from the year 1320, and anyone who
surveys the relics of the great beauty with which the founders of the
church equipped it may guess that the choir stalls were rarely lovely.
Not one chip remains of them. By the time he had done all this the
bishop had made much progress towards bringing his lovely cathedral to
the condition of some Bible Christian chapel in a country village.
But the church was full of marbles. Out they went, no one knows where.
The pulpit was among the most exquisite of man's works. He began to
deface it, but something stayed his hand, I cannot guess what, for
such a man must have been impenetrable to remorse. The man who did us
this intolerable wrong was called Tafuri, and I hope visitors to
Ravello will not forget him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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