Narrative of a Journey to the Summit of Mont BlancHoward, William
History
Narrative of a Journey to the Summit of Mont Blanc
Howard, William
Blanc, Mont (France and Italy); Mountaineering
The number of openings we met with, which were broader than the length
of our ladder, and which, of course, we had no means of crossing,
rendered our path extremely circuitous. We were often enabled, by the
ladder's assistance, to scale high and perpendicular banks of snow. It
sometimes proved too short to reach to the top; but where the steep
was not absolutely perpendicular, we contrived in several instances to
remedy this inconvenience. One of the guides, standing on the top of
the ladder, enabled the rest, who clambered up by his assistance, and
over his shoulders, to reach the summit; when there, we easily drew up
him and the ladder with cords.
We were occasionally compelled to retrace our steps, and we were
frequently so involved in the intricacies of the glacier, that we had
to remain without proceeding, a considerable time, until the guides,
who were dispersed in every direction on the discovery, could find a
practical path to extricate us.
In addition to these difficulties, I had not been long on the glacier,
before I perceived that my faithless boot had given way; which, as
every thing depended upon the state of our feet, was a serious
misfortune. Necessity, however, is the mother of invention, and I
contrived to bind it with cords in such a manner, that it served me
tolerably well the rest of the journey.
In consequence of all these obstacles, we only arrived at 5 o'clock at
the "Grand Mulet," not more than four or five miles distant, in a
straight line from the point where we entered on the glacier; but,
from the circuitous route we had taken, we could not have walked less,
in this distance, than 14 or 15 miles. We were now 11,000 feet above
the level of the sea, and 8,000 feet above the village of Chamouny. A
niche on the steep side, and near the top of the rock, about a hundred
and fifty feet from its base, and to which we had much difficulty in
climbing, was selected for our lodging place; indeed it was the only
part of the rock, that afforded any thing like a level place. We were
fortunate in finding the day had been so warm, that there was water
in some of the crevices of the ice, which circumstance enabled us to
economize our charcoal. The sun shone very bright on our side of the
rock; but as soon as it sunk below the horizon, the eternal frost
around us regained its influence, and the air became very cold. We
had, however, time to dry our boots and pantaloons, and I found a pair
of large woolen stockings, that I had with me, an invaluable article.
Our guides stretched the ladder from one point of the rock to another,
and, throwing over it a couple of sheets they had brought for the
purpose, formed a kind of tent, just large enough for Dr. Van
Rensselaer and myself to creep in: a single blanket upon the rock was
our bed. The guides were so loaded with indispensable articles, that
we had not been able to bring a blanket, or even an extra coat to
cover us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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