Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1: Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's GovernmentRichardson, James
History
Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1: Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's Government
Richardson, James
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel; Richardson, James, 1806-1851
I should mention, that the second night Ali came up in a penitent state
along with a khafilah from Ghareeah, and so our poor black women had an
opportunity of getting a lift on the spare camels. We could, therefore,
go on until morning without fear of losing any of our party in the
night. The position of a person who falls behind a caravan in the desert
very much resembles that of a man overboard. This khafilah preceded us
to Shaty.
After the third night I found the weather so cool and temperate, that I
continued on the whole of the day; and the Germans joining me in the
evening, we did not again separate. It was towards the close of the
third night that we were assailed by an awful tempest of wind, rain, and
lightning, which flashed upon us occasionally through the thick
darkness. The Germans, who were encamped, had their tents carried away,
whilst we who were in motion found ourselves compelled to stop and
crouch under the bellies of our camels until the morning broke, and the
hurricane had spent its force. The cold was intense, and our people
complained bitterly. More than once, indeed, the thermometer was down to
freezing-point whilst we were traversing the plateau; and one morning
the desert was covered with a shining frost.
Although we became accustomed to the desolate appearance of this
district by degrees, we counted eagerly the days and hours that brought
us nearer the confines of Fezzan. Every night's incidents were the same.
On we went, nodding drowsily on our camels, sometimes dropping off into
a sound sleep, variegated by a snatch of pleasant dreams. But these
indulgences are dangerous. I was more than once on the point of falling
off. By day, few objects of interest presented themselves: linnets and
finches fluttered here and there upon the rare bushes, whilst swallows
joined the caravan, and skimmed round and round for hours among the
camels, almost brushing the faces of the drivers. Lizards glanced and
snakes writhed across the path. We started three wadan or mouflon,
churlish animals, fond of such solitudes. As to the birds, our people
say they do not drink in winter, and in summer leave the Hamadah
altogether. Four-fifths of the surface were utterly barren. Little
mounds marked the graves of children, slaves who had perished on the way
from inner Africa. The mirage was common, but rarely pretty. Sometimes
ridges of low mountains seemed raised on the level plain, probably
reflected from the cliffs that edge the plateau. The scattered herbage
also assumed regular forms--squares, ovals, circles. Now and then it
seemed as if vast ruins were ahead, but as we drew nigh these dwindled
into little desert-mosques, formed of half-circles of stones, now turned
to the east, now to the west. Here the faithful who may be obliged to
traverse these dreary regions stop to offer up their simple prayer to
the Almighty Allah, to whom, they say, the dreadful Hamadah belongs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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