There are numerous lakelets near the shore, the banks of which form the
favourite breeding places of the Canada goose, the mallard, pintail,
teal, scaup, and long-tailed ducks, great northern diver,[1] and the
Arctic tern. The phalaropus hyperboreus is also very numerous--so much
so that I could have shot twenty in half-an-hour. The female of this
phalarope and of the P. fulicarius is considerably larger, and has much
finer markings on its plumage, than the male, the colours being much
brighter.
As we sailed along shore to the westward, the land gradually became more
high and rocky, and there were many ridges of stones lying off several
miles from the beach, among which we had some trouble in threading our
way, the navigation being rendered still more difficult by a thick fog.
We arrived at the mouth of Churchill River at 3 A.M. on the 27th, but as
the tide was ebbing we could not stem the current, so that we did not
reach the Company's Fort, situated on the west bank of the river and
about five miles up, until half-past six, when I was most kindly
welcomed by my friend Mr. Sinclair, chief trader, the gentleman in
charge, who had not expected to see us so early.
My letter of instructions had not yet arrived, so that we took advantage
of the delay thus occasioned to have the boats unloaded, some slight
repairs effected, and the cargoes examined and dried. I determined on
leaving here some tobacco, salt, and one or two other articles that were
not absolutely essential, supplying their place with pemmican and flour.
Some observations for the dip of the needle gave mean dip 84° 47' 3".
The variation of the compass 12° 29' east, and the latitude of the
Establishment 58° 44' 12" were found, and the mean time of 70 vertical
vibrations of the needle in the magnetic meridian was 148".
The people of the fort were busy killing white whales, great numbers of
which come up the river with the flood tide. The mode of taking them is
very simple. A boat, having a harpooner both at bow and stern, sails out
among the shoal, and being painted white, it does not alarm them; they
approach quite close, and are thus easily struck. When harpooned they do
not run any great distance in one direction, but dart about much in the
way that a trout does when hooked.
On the evening of the 4th July the anxiously expected instructions
arrived from Red River, viâ York Factory. The following is a copy of
them:--
"_Red River Settlement_,
"15th June, 1846.
"SIR,
"You are aware that the grand object of the expedition which has
been placed under your direction is to complete the geography of
the northern shore of America, by surveying the only section of
the same that has not yet been traced, namely, the deep bay, as
it is supposed to be, stretching from the western extremity of
the Straits of the Fury and Hecla to the eastern limit of the
discoveries of Messrs. Dease and Simpson.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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