Narrative of Richard Lee Mason in the Pioneer West, 1819 — John Shaqi
Narrative of Richard Lee Mason in the Pioneer West, 1819Mason, Richard Lee
History
Narrative of Richard Lee Mason in the Pioneer West, 1819
Mason, Richard Lee
United States -- Description and travel
Friday, Nov. 12.--Remained this day in St. Louis. The town is not very
handsome or large. The streets are narrow and irregular, and the houses,
with a few exceptions, meanly built. It appears the attention of the
inhabitants has been turned solely toward making money. Taste and art as
yet have been much neglected. Visited the Roman chapel. Although
unfinished it is a spacious, handsome building. The new bank is of
modern shape, in appearance, a very neat little building. Visited the
Indian museum or grand council or war chamber, which contains many
specimens of curious workmanship, and a number of curiosities presented
to the government by the chiefs of different nations. Visited the
theater. This is only a temporary building. It is placed in the middle
of a duck puddle, is finished in the coarsest manner and of the meanest
materials. The decorations inside are few. The gallery will contain
about ten persons and the house 200. No danger of fire. The water rises
in the pit and in case of emergency a tolerably brisk fellow might run
head foremost through any part of it. In ridiculously ugly and slight
appearance it surpasses all ever seen or heard of. It is not half so
large or half so good as the common horse-stables in Philadelphia.
Saturday, Nov. 13.--Left St. Louis at 6 o'clock a. m. Crossed the
Mississippi to Illinois on my way to Kaskaskia. Passed a small village
called Cahokia, a miserable, dirty little hole. But very few good
houses. Inhabitants half French, half Indian, retaining part of the
manners of both. The French language is generally spoken, but not in its
purity. For eight or ten miles we traveled on the American bottom,
which, in all probabilities, never was surpassed in fertility. After
leaving the bottom the country is rather hilly and barren. Traveled
twenty-two miles and lodged at Waterloo, a town without houses. Only two
families in the place. Every land speculator produces one or more of
these dirt-cabin villages. Indeed, two-thirds of the travelers met with
are land speculators. The inhabitants of this part of the country appear
to be a wretched set of beings. Their great-coats are made out of a
blanket, with a cap or hood out of the same piece. Then moccasins and
leggins complete the suit. Uncover a Frenchman's head and his friends
are immediately alarmed for his health. The pig pens in Pennsylvania are
generally as clean and much better built than the miserable huts
occupied by these lazy people. In a state of almost starvation they hold
their Gumbo balls twice a week. For nimbleness of foot and lightness of
heart the French have never been surpassed.
"Hope springs eternal in the human breast;
Man never is, always to be, blest."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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