Narrative of the Life and Travels of Serjeant B——Butler, Robert
History
Narrative of the Life and Travels of Serjeant B——
Butler, Robert
Butler, Robert, 1784- -- Travel -- India; India -- Description and travel
I do not here intend to give a particular account of Madras; but as
your curiosity may be somewhat excited, I will gratify it a little, by
giving you a kind of general description. Madras, or Fort St. George,
(sometimes distinguished into Black Town and White Town,) the
principal settlement of the British, on the coast of Coromandel, has a
very beautiful appearance from the sea; and the first sight of this
place is not calculated to spoil the picture which a sanguine
imagination draws to itself. The clear, blue, cloudless sky, and the
polished white buildings, of which there is a great number, both in
the Fort and along the beach, present a combination entirely new to
the British traveller, which is well fitted to give him a very exalted
idea of India, and lead him to imagine, after being so long out of the
sight of land, that he is entering a new world, something far superior
to that which he has left. But it is with this as with the work of the
painter; for it looks best at a distance. That part of the town which
is within the fortress can boast indeed of several fine streets; and
the houses being covered with a kind of stucco, called _chunam_,
which is capable of a polish little inferior to marble, have a very
elegant and lively appearance: but as to the houses of the original
town, sometimes called by the natives, Madras _Patnam_, (which
signifies _superior_,) no rule seems to have been followed but
that of contrast; for the fine white polished buildings of the
European, the Persian, or the Indian merchant, are promiscuously
interspersed with the most wretched mud-walled cocoa-nut covered huts
of the poorest native: and the confused, irregular, unpaved streets,
render it one of the dirtiest places possible in wet weather. There
are a number of meeting-houses here for the various religious
professors; but that which has the most respectable appearance, (the
protestant church of Fort St. George excepted,) belongs to the
Armenians. The appearances of the natives also are extremely varied;
and we find it hold good here, as in other parts of the world, "that
the poor and the rich meet together;" for we here see some carried in
palanquins shoulder high, and others performing all the offices of
drudgery; while some are riding in their bullock coaches, others are
walking on foot, following their various employments; while some are
riding upon horses, well clothed, with ear-rings the circumference of
a large tea-cup, others are hardly able to walk, but literally,
"wretched, and miserable, and poor, and blind, and naked." That
feature in the female character which has been general in all ages, is
also very prominent in this place: for we find many of the wealthy of
that sex adorned with all the varieties of toys mentioned by the
prophet, "walking with stretched forth necks, and wanton eyes; walking
and mincing as they go, and making a tinkling with their feet;" but it
is the less to be wondered at, that these poor creatures should take
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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