Narrative of the surveying voyages of His Majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle, between the years 1826 and 1836. Volume I. Proceedings of the First Expedition, 1826-1830King, Philip Parker
History
Narrative of the surveying voyages of His Majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle, between the years 1826 and 1836. Volume I. Proceedings of the First Expedition, 1826-1830
King, Philip Parker
Adventure and Beagle expedition (1826-1830); Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Fuegians; Indians of South America -- Patagonia (Argentina and Chile); Natural history -- South America; Patagonia (Argentina and Chile) -- Description and travel; South America -- Description and travel
At all these anchorages, under high land, there are some parts more exposed
than others; and by watching for those places which are least troubled by
these squalls, a more secure, or rather a more quiet, spot may be selected.
I do not consider ships so anchored to be in danger if their ground tackle
be good; but every thing that offers a stiff resistance must suffer from
the fury of these blasts. In many parts of this country trees are torn up
by the roots, or rent asunder by the wind; and in the Gabriel Channel the
'williwaws' bursting over the mountainous ridge, which forms the south side
of the channel, descend, and striking against the base of the opposite
shore, rush up the steep, and carry all before them. I know of nothing to
which I can better compare the bared track left by one of these squalls
than to a bad broad road. After {51} having made such an opening, the wind
frequently sweeping through prevents the growth of vegetation. Confused
masses of up-rooted trees lie at the lower ends of these bared tracks, and
show plainly what power has been exerted.
The southern shore of the channel is formed by the base of that range of
hills, which extends, from the eastern side of the Magdalen Channel,
towards the E.S.E. It is the highest part of Tierra del Fuego, and on it
are several remarkable mountains, besides Sarmiento, towering over all.
Close to the east end of the Gabriel Channel is Mount Buckland, a tall
obelisk-like hill, terminating in a sharp needle-point, and lifting its
head above a chaotic mass of 'reliquiæ diluvianæ,' covered with perpetual
snow, by the melting of which an enormous glacier on the leeward, or
north-eastern side, has been gradually formed. This icy domain is twelve or
fourteen miles long, and extends from near the end of the channel to Port
Waterfall, feeding, in the intermediate space, many magnificent cascades,
which, for number and height, are not perhaps to be exceeded in an equal
space of any part of the world. Within an extent of nine or ten miles,
there are upwards of a hundred and fifty waterfalls, dashing into the
channel from a height of fifteen hundred, or two thousand feet. The course
of many is concealed, at first, by intervening trees, and, when half-way
down the descent, they burst upon the view, leaping, as it were, out of the
wood. Some unite as they fall, and together are precipitated into the sea,
in a cloud of foam; so varied, indeed, are the forms of these cascades, and
so great their contrast with the dark foliage of the trees, which thickly
cover the sides of the mountain, that it is impossible adequately to
describe the scene. I have met with nothing exceeding the picturesque
grandeur of this part of the Strait.
There are several coves on the south shore, but opposite to them there is
no shelter until you reach a deep bay in which are several islets; and
where, I think, there is a communication with Brenton Sound, but we did not
enter it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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