Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824Denham, Dixon
History
Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824
Denham, Dixon
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Africa, North
On a day appointed we waited on the bashaw. After passing the
court-yard, crowded with guards, and several groups of Arabs in the
passages and ante-rooms playing at cards or dice, we were introduced
to the audience chamber, where the bashaw, sitting cross-legged on
a carpet, supported by his two sons, and attended by armed negroes,
received us kindly, ordered us to be served with sherbet and coffee,
and expressed himself in the most favourable manner on the subject
of our mission, which he promised to forward in safety into the
interior of Africa. He invited us to join him in a hawking party. The
cavalcade, consisting of about three hundred, altogether presented so
novel an appearance, that I shall endeavour to give some description
of our morning’s amusement. The bashaw was mounted on a milk-white
Arabian, superbly caparisoned, with saddle of crimson velvet richly
studded with gold nails, heavy stirrups of the same, and trappings of
embroidered cloth hanging down on each side nearly to the horse’s
fetlock joint; he was preceded by six _chaoushes_, or officers, also
mounted and richly caparisoned, armed with long guns, swords, and
pistols, and a white silk barracan thrown loosely and gracefully round
their bodies. His highness was supported on each side by a favourite
black slave, whose glittering vest, light bornouse, and white turban,
formed a pleasing contrast to the costume of the Arabs. We proceeded
in a westerly direction; and on arriving at the desert, parties of
six and eight dashed forward, with the rapidity of lightning, several
hundred paces, fired, immediately halted in a most surprising manner,
and with loud cries rushed back again to the main body, when instantly
the same ceremony was repeated by another party. Their superior
skill in the management of their horses is really beautiful; and
the way they manœuvre their long musket, by repeatedly spinning it
over their heads at full speed, has a most picturesque effect. Near
the bashaw’s person rode Sidy Ali, his third son, although second
in succession, in consequence of the banishment of the eldest; he
also was attended by his particular guard of Arabs, distinguished
not only by their superior and determined appearance, but by their
figured muslin bornouses. Sidy Ali is the bashaw’s favourite son,
and is particularly handsome, although what we should call too fat,
and is said to resemble very much what the bashaw was at his age:
he is allowed great privilege and liberty, which is indeed proved
by his saying, the other day, to his father, “I shall succeed you
as bashaw.” “How do you mean?” “How? why, by taking the same
steps you did yourself,” said the youth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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