Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
You cross the
Kizil-Irmák by a bridge to the castle, it is of a strong architecture,
no more than eight hundred paces in circumference, with an iron gate.
As it is situated so amazingly high I did not see the interior, but
only the outer town or suburb, consisting of a thousand old Tátár
houses covered with planks and earth, there are seven quarters and
as many mosques, three kháns, and a small bath, the water of which
is drawn from a well supplied by the Kizil Irmák. On three sides of
the town is sandy ground. Raisins are very sweet here on account of
the heat of the soil. In the sand grows a plant called Kabre (Capers)
which preserved in vinegar is in great use. The poor and almost all the
inhabitants are Dervishes of the order of Hají-Begtásh, because one of
their principal Saints is buried on the west side of the town on an
elevated spot.
_Pilgrimage to the tomb of the great Saint Koyún Baba, (Father of the
Dynasty of the Sheep.)_
He was the true successor of Hají Begtásh. Having appeared to Sultán
Bayazíd, he ordered him to build a cupola on his tomb, a mosque, a
convent, a meeting-place for the Dervishes, (Meidán), a caravanseraï
with kitchen and cellar. All these establishments are covered with
lead, which with the golden crescents on them dazzle the eyes of
beholders even at a distance. The Imaret (kitchen for the poor) is
smoking day and night. As soon as I, poor Evliyá, arrived here, I
went to visit this place of pilgrimage; I kissed the threshold,
saying, “Es-selám aleik,” and entered the tomb, where I read the
Korán, thanking God for the grace he had granted me to visit it. The
cupola is perfumed with musk and amber, which is very agreeable to the
senses of visitors, on whom the keepers of the mausoleum also sprinkle
rose-water. The preacher and the other Dervishes Begtáshí who watch and
pray at the tomb, said prayers on the head of me, poor Evliyá, wishing
me a happy journey, with good sight, and perfect health and happiness
in both worlds. The Dervishes all uttered the Mohammedan shout (Allah!)
and read a Fátihah. When the Sheikh covered my head with his cap,
I felt a wind blowing on both my ears, and my eyes were lighted up
like Arab torches. Since the shipwreck which I had suffered in the
Black Sea, swimming naked for three days and nights, my sight had
suffered cruelly, and was only restored by this head-dress (the Crown
of felicity) being put on my head. I then conversed with all the poor
of the convent, and dined with them, and I have ever since kept the
symbols of Dervishship, which I received at the Convent, viz. the habit
(Khirka); the carpet (Sejáde;) the standard (A’alem); the drum (Tabl
Kúdúmí); the halter (Pálehenk); the stick (Assa); and the head-dress or
crown, (Táj).
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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