Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
is a reverential place, where prayers are put up to Heaven. I visited
it, and read the Súra Yass there; through the sanctity of this saint
the country abounds with cattle. Two Chiftliks are exempted by Imperial
diploma from all taxes; the village consists of three hundred houses,
with a mosque and a convent, the dervishes of which go bareheaded and
barefooted, and wear their hair long. The people carry wooden clubs
in their hands, some of them crooked sticks (litúi). They all came to
wait on the Páshá, and to exhibit the grants of their foundation. The
Páshá asked from whence they dated their immunity, and they invited
him to visit their place of devotion (Sema’ákháneh). We followed them
to a large place where a great fire was lighted of more than forty
waggon-loads of wood, and forty victims sacrificed. They assigned a
place for the Páshá at a distance from the fire, and began to dance
round it, playing their drums and flutes, and crying “Hú!” and “Allah!”
This circular motion being continued for an hour, about an hundred of
these dervishes naked, took their children by the hand, and entered
the fire, the flames of which towered like the pile of Nimrod, crying
“O all constant! O all vivifying!” At the end of half an hour, they
came out of the fire, without the least hurt except the singeing of
their hair and beards, some of them retiring to their cells, instead
of coming before the Páshá, who remained much astonished. They then
gave a feast to the Páshá, which was even greater than Ahmed Tabán’s
feast. It was surprising that they were enabled to prepare such a
feast in so short a time, as the Páshá had arrived suddenly, and by a
by-road. The Páshá confirmed their immunities, and gave them a present
of one hundred ducats. In sixteen hours more we came to the plain of
Terján. The mosque of Sultán Hassan is a praiseworthy monument of Uzún
Hassan, but ít stands alone here. Uzún Hassan, who liked the situation,
intended to build a town here bearing his name, but Sultán Mohammed II.
destroyed all his projects by the famous battle, which was fought on
this plain; it was a scene of great slaughter, even now the peasants
find bones and hidden treasures when ploughing the field. We crossed
this plain hastily, and in eight hours reached the village, where
the Kiaya of the Chaúshes had provided a great feast for the Páshá,
and presented him with five horses, five purses, and three Georgian
slaves. At the end of five hours we reached the village of Púlúr, and
in four hours that of Terjánlí Alí Agha, an Armenian village of three
hundred houses, a mosque and a bath. Alí Agha gave a grand repast here,
accompanied with a present of ten horses, ten purses, ten strings of
camels, and five of mules. We went from hence nine hours further, to
the village of Mama Khatún, in the district of Erzerúm, consisting of
one hundred Mussulman houses; it is a free ziámet.
_Pilgrimage of Mama Khatún._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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