Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
This lady is buried beneath a cupola, at the foot of a rock; she was
the daughter of one of the Princes of the Aúk Koyúnlí, and lies buried
here with all her children, but without any keeper attached to her
mausoleum, she is buried in a marble coffin; near it is a mosque and
a bath. Six hours further is the village of Habs, at the western end
of the plain of Erzerúm; it consists of one hundred and fifty Armenian
houses. All the principal men of Erzerúm came to this place with
presents to meet the Páshá’s Diván. We proceeded with a large retinue
for the space of five hours, to the hot-bath, which is also situated
at the western end of the plain of Erzerúm, and where every year some
person or other is drowned. It is a very useful bath, but too warm to
be used without a mixture of cold water. Some of the former princes
have built a dressing-room here (jámeghán), and a basin (havúz): the
climate is pleasant. The Motesellem Mustafa Agha, here presented the
Páshá with an Arabian racehorse, caparisoned with jewels, a sable
pelisse, a quiver, and a sword set with jewels, a dagger and a girdle,
and ten racehorses, mounted by ten Georgian boys, all armed. His three
hundred and seventy slaves were clad in showy dresses, like so many
waiting youths in Paradise. He gave also to me, poor Evliyá, a sable
fur, some cloth, and one hundred piastres, because I had been master
to his son for some time. Our arrival at this hot-bath was exactly
the seventieth journey we had made since we left Constantinople, and
an entrance in grand procession was organized, which outrivalled in
brilliancy those of the greatest Vezírs. Indeed, the Páshá was a
Commander-in-Chief (Serdár), who by Imperial rescript (Khattí Sheríf)
was allowed even to use the Túghra, or cypher of the Sultán. The troops
of Erzerúm paraded on both sides of the way from this hot bath, which
is six hours distance from Erzerúm, up to the gates of the town; with
cuirasses and casques, bearing long lances, their horses being adorned
with knots of sea-horses’ bristles, and various other trappings. The
Páshá was surrounded by eight body-guards (Shátir), who wore golden
caps on their heads, carried battle-axes in their hands, had golden
girdles, and splendid caftáns, walking like the peacocks of Paradise.
On the right and left of the Páshá walked the Matarají-bashí (keeper
of the leaden bottle, which contains the water for purification), and
the Tufenkjí-bashí, or head of the fuzileers, bearing a water-bottle
set with jewels, and muskets of costly workmanship. The Páshá passed
between two lines, greeting both sides, and the people returned his
salute. Four hundred Ulemás all clad in armour were headed by the
Imám, and I, poor Evliya, as Múëzzin. Behind us followed the treasurer
and the standard-bearer, with the eightfold Turkish music. The Tátár
troops, the Muteferrika, the chamberlains, passed, all clad in armour.
As soon as the procession drew near Erzerúm, the fortress began to
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