Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
their praise that the verse was composed, which says, “The people of
Tabríz, though given to pleasure, are as pure as the glass of a mirror;
and if you say they are not true to friends, you must know that the
mirror only reflects the object before it as it really appears.”
_General Praise of Tabríz._
The first and most agreeable properties of Tabríz is the abundance
of water, by which means the streets are washed and cleansed from
all dust, as though it was continually New Year’s day. The second
praiseworthy circumstance is, that the Sherífs or descendants of
Mohammed do not give their daughters indiscriminately to servants,
but only to their equals. They proposed the following nice point to
me, saying:—“You take Infidel girls as women, because you say that
the man plants the seed, and that is very well; but you also give
your own daughters to Moslíms, who were first Infidels and afterwards
converted; now if this new Moslím relapses into his former error,
what then becomes of the children, who though their mother be a true
descendant of the Prophet, may become apostates and fly into the land
of the Infidels?” I answered, with the tradition of the Prophet, which
says, “that even the children of Christians and Jews are born true
Moslims, but that they are afterwards seduced into error by their
parents.” There was no reply to that. The third good thing is that all
sales are transacted with Persian money coined in the country, and that
no foreign coin is received. Money is coined in seven towns, viz. at
Erdebíl, Hamadán, Baghdád, Isfahán, Tiflís, Nehávend, and Tabríz. The
inscription on one side is, “There is no God, but God, and Mohammed
is the Prophet, and Alí the friend of God;” on the reverse is the
name of the Sháh, with the epithet of Alí’s dog: their small coins or
pennies are called Kázikí, they bear only the place of the coinage on
one side, and the date of the year on the other: on their measures and
weights are also written the words, “There is no God but God,” and
who dares to cheat in the name of God is blinded by a heated stone
drawn over his eyes. Before their shops and markets, scales of yellow
brass are suspended, which are never taken away, but always remain,
and all eatables and drinkables are sold by weight according to the
fixed market prices; even corn and wheat are sold by weight. The fourth
good things are the cookshops, fitted-up with china and furnished with
plates of the same material; they are opened with prayer as usual in
the morning, and then filled with all kinds of pilaws, and stewed meat
(Herisse), which are also sold by weight. The waiters, clean and smart,
stand with pewter dishes under their arms, on which are inscriptions
like the following: “No nobility above the Islám;” “The nobility of the
place depends upon who occupies it;” “The nobility of the house depends
upon its inhabitants; and the nobility of the inhabitants upon their
generosity.” After dinner these waiters bring clean basins and cans for
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