Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
The castle of Bakú is built on a hill and is of a square form; the
gate looking to the west is of iron from Nakhshiván, the circumference
is seven hundred paces, it has seventy towers, and six hundred
battlements, the height of the wall is forty royal cubits; being
situated on a rock, there is no necessity for a ditch. Within the
castle are seventy houses with terraces, a mosque of Hyder Sháh, but
without a minareh. In the castle is no khán, bath or market, but on
the shore of the Caspian Sea the suburb (Robát) consists of a thousand
houses with gardens, mosques and kháns, surrounded with walls on
three sides; there are three gates, the gate of Guílán to the north;
the gate of Derbend to the south; and westward towards the sea-shore
is the harbour-gate. Seven minarehs of as many mosques are to be
seen, the names of which I am ignorant of, and three baths, the most
brilliant of which is that of Mirza Khán. This place being a frontier
fortress opposed to Russia is garrisoned with excellent troops called
Sháhseven and Dizchoken (who love the Sháh and bend their knees before
him.) It is the seat of a Khán in the province of Shirván, ruled by
twelve magistrates. The Russian Cossacks have several times pillaged
the town of Bakú, and the province of Guílán; they besieged it at the
instigation of the Persians soon after its conquest by Uzdemír-oghlí
Osmán Páshá, when Kobád Páshá was governor, but were all cut down, and
their bones are yet piled up on the shore. The climate is mild and
favourable to the cultivation of rice and cotton; the water all smells
of Naphtha which is found in seven mines near the town, of different
colours, yellow, red and black. The inhabitants of the districts of
Musekker, Sedán, and Ríneb do not use oil or grease, but all burn
black Naphtha. The people are sound and stout, and some of them fine
figures; they are for the most part Sunnís. The distance between this
town and Derbend is four days journey, peopled by wandering Turcomans.
Three journies east of Bakú is the town of Shabúrán, and Shamákhí is
five journies to the east; the port of Shamákhí is much frequented by
Chinese, and Tartars, Kalmúks and Russians, who bring different wares,
in exchange for which they take salt, naphtha, safian, and silk. Round
the town are many places, where if a portion of earth is dug up fire
bursts forth, which is used by the Caraváns in cooking their victuals.
Near the town to the north flows the Kúr, which is sometimes navigated
by Cossack and Russian pirates, who ravage the Persian provinces, and
sell their prisoners privately in the markets of Guílán. It is a great
river like the Danube, broad but not deep. I remained some days at
Bakú to witness the festival at the wedding of the sister of the Khán
of Eriván, who was married to the Khán of Bakú. If I were to describe
minutely all that took place at this festival it would more than fill
a large book. During a fortnight’s stay I received many valuable
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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