Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
At a gun-shot distance on the north side is a high mountain, at the
foot of which this fortress rises on a separate hill; the lower castle
is situated in the plain, and has five strong walls. The gate of the
outer or lower castle looks to the east, and that of the inner or
upper castle to the west. There is only the house of the commander,
and barracks for the garrison of two hundred men; no bath, market, or
any remarkable building. The lower town or suburb is surrounded by
two strong walls, and has three iron gates which are adorned with all
kinds of armour. One of these gates on the west is the water-gate, also
called the gate of the troops, looking towards Erzerúm; the second or
middle gate opens to Kaghzmún; the third to the east is the gate of
Behrám-páshá, opening towards Eriván. Watchmen keep watch the whole
night, lighting torches and lamps. The lower castle is surrounded by a
lake instead of a ditch, which encircles it from the middle gate to the
gate of Behrám-páshá, and hence it is impossible to get possession of
the fortress. There are two hundred and twenty strong towers, and two
thousand and eighty battlements; the circumference of the whole is five
thousand seven hundred paces. The buildings consist of three thousand
houses, forty-seven mosques, in eight of which prayer is performed on
Fridays; the most remarkable is that of Sheikh Hassan Kharkání, built
by Lala Páshá; the mosque of Waíz Efendí at the water-gate; the great
mosque of Súleimán Efendí, which was formerly a church; the mosque of
Hossein Kiaya called the red church; the mosque of Omar Efendí, which
was destroyed when the Persians got possession of the castle, solely
on account of being named after Omar, and turned into a stable; the
mosque of Káltákjí-zadeh, at the gate of Behrám-páshá; the mosque of
Beirám Chelebi-zadeh; and on the south side of the town across the
bridge, the mosque of Emír Yússúf Páshá, all covered with terraces.
There are eighteen schools for boys, but no colleges for lectures on
the sciences, which are all held in the mosques. Within the water-gate
is the bath of Emír Yússúf Páshá; within the middle gate is the old
bath. There are no houses for reading of the Korán or tradition, or
for dining the poor, who are, however, well taken care of by private
generosity; there is no stone Bezestán, but two hundred shops in which
Indian and Persian wares are found. No gardens and vineyards on account
of the cold temperature of the climate. The inhabitants are a lively
set of people who gain their living by agriculture and commerce.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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