Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
At the station of Búrebaí, opposite to the western side of Assov,
a branch of the Don flows in its way to the sea of Assov, where it
disembogues in three different channels; as it runs through reeds for a
great distance, it is not very sweet: the complexion of the inhabitants
on its shores is yellow, and they have a kind of excrescence or crop on
the neck. The whole army halted here, as on a pleasant flowery meadow,
and three hundred horses were slaughtered and eaten up that evening. It
was here that I ate horseflesh for the first time. Though I belonged to
the Tátár Khán, yet I lived with Kiá Beg of the tribe of Mássúrlí, who
have their Yúrds (encampments) in Crimea; the district of Mankis Eli on
the side of Gozlava is their Yúrd. Their horses are extremely fat, and
their flesh can hardly be distinguished from roes’ flesh, and is easy
to digest. Next morning the kettle-drums beat, and after a march of
nine hours we arrived at the river Sud, which the whole army crossed,
and halted on the other side, but the ground being extremely marshy,
one hundred horses and fifty slaves were lost in the marshes. This
river issues from the western mountains of Russia and here enters the
sea of Assov. The name Sud or milk-river is derived from its whitish
colour, which it contracts from the different metallic strata over
which it passes in its course. It is not good for drinking, and causes
crops or swellings on the necks of those who drink of it. There are
seventy cultivated towns and villages on both sides of this river, but
they are not very flourishing on account of the depredations of the
Crimea Tátárs. These places all belong to the Russians.
We left this place and came to the river Mús, a large river which we
passed over with the greatest difficulty at this cold season, the arms
being all put in leather jacks. It is fresh water like that of the
Don, Dnieper, and Danube, and contains excellent fish. It comes from
the northern mountains of Russia. We crossed it, and next day when
the Kettle-drums were beaten for departure, the snow had fallen three
cubits deep. We slept that night on the snow of the field of Kipchák,
and arrived next day at the station of Búrúmbaí; here we slept again on
the snow, and on the following day after sixteen hours ride, reached
the frontier of Crimea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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