Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
Baba-Eskissí; and here, Kilghra Sultán; in Christian countries he is
generally called St. Nicolas, is much revered and the Christian monks
ask alms under his auspices.
The Convent is situated on a cape which extends into the Black Sea like
the proboscis of an Elephant. The ships that sail from Constantinople
to Kara Khirmen, Kostenjí, and Kilí pass along these rocks of Kilghra
directly opposite to those of Sinope, and if the weather is clear, are
mutually seen from both shores. The cave in which Sárí Sáltik killed
the dragon is at the same time his burial place. The convent was built
by Alí Mokhtár; the wooden sword of the Saint, his swing, half-drum,
kettle-drum, drum, banner and sanjak are kept here, numerous cells
surround it, occupied by learned and virtuous Dervishes, who reside
here on their hides, all true Sunnis and faithful believers, more than
one hundred. They read with me more than eight months according to the
method of Hafss. The windows of the Convent, and of the monument, all
look towards the sea. The magnificent kitchen like that of Keikavús
is worth seeing; day and night the fire is kept up on the stove for
passengers and strangers, they have no endowments but live on alms;
they are all purified by mystic divine love. To the right and left of
the mountain are many wells in the rocks. The rocks being perpendicular
like those of Mount Bisútún are excavated at the base. The projecting
rocks are so lofty that ships with topmasts an hundred yards high
may enter here, and come to an anchor. The masters of these ships
take in barley and wheat which is brought in waggons to the mouths of
the aforesaid shafts which are cut in the rock, and poured down them
into the holds; these shafts were cut in ancient times by Infidel
stonecutters, who were like so many Ferháds; and it is a peculiar sight
not to be seen elsewhere, and saves a circuit of between three and four
hours in bringing the barley to the foot of the rock. There are no such
high and dreary rocks any where in the Black Sea. During southernly
and easternly gales, the sea produces a roaring in the excavations,
which is heard as far as Iflatár and Ilhánlar near Silistra, a day’s
journey from hence. On the top of these rocks are nests of eagles each
as large as a sheep, they are even killed and eaten by some for mutton.
Near the Convent is the Castle of Kilghra, which was taken by Mússa
Chelebí out of the hands of the Infidels. It belongs to the district
of Bálchik in the government of Ozakov. It is a small but strong
square castle on the seashore, twenty paces in circumference, with a
gate opening to the west, it has neither mosque or khán, commander
or garrison. Being situated on a limestone cliff it has no ditch on
one side; on the east side is a precipice of one hundred fathoms; the
lower part of this castle is also excavated, like the rocks of the
convent. When Nassif Páshá Zadeh Hossein was governor of Ozakov, these
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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