List of Illustrations Facing Page Railway Station, Paoting-fu. . . . . . . . . .Title View of Canton, Showing House Boats. . . . . . . . 22 H. I. H. Prince Su and Attendants. . . . . . . . . 32 A Rut in the Loess Region. . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Germans Building Railway Bridge in Shantung. . . . 56 A Shendza in Shantung. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Climbing Tai-shan, the Sacred Mountain . . . . . . 70 The Grave of Confucius . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Part of the Author's Escort of Chinese Cavalrymen. 92 Watching the Author writing in his Diary at a noon stop A Snap Shot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 The Bund, Shanghai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112 American Cigarette Posters on a Chinese Bridge . .112 The Chinese Cart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 The Old and The New. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 French Military Post, Saigon . . . . . . . . . . .150 German Soldiers on the Bund, Tien-tsin . . . . . .150 The British Legation Guard, Peking . . . . . . . .174 The Temple of Heaven, Peking . . . . . . . . . . .198 Memorial Arch, Hall of the Classics, Peking. . . .228 Graduating Class, Presbyterian Theological Seminary, Canton, 1904. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .268 Approach to the Imperial Palace in the Forbidden City, Peking. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .320 Two of China's Great Men Yuan Shih Kai and Chang Chih-tung . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .344 Map. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .370 PART I Old China and its People I THE ANCIENT EMPIRE HE must be dead to all noble thoughts who can tread the venerable continent of Asia without profound emotion. Beyond any other part of the earth, its soil teems with historic associations. Here was the birthplace of the human race. Here first appeared civilization. Here were born art and science, learning and philosophy. Here man first engaged in commerce and manufacture. And here emerged all the religious teachers who have most powerfully influenced mankind, for it was in Asia in an unknown antiquity that the Persian Zoroaster taught the dualism of good and evil; that the Indian Gautama 600 years before Christ declared that self-abnegation was the path to a dreamless Nirvana; that less than a century later the Chinese Lao-tse enunciated the mysteries of Taoism and Confucius uttered his maxims regarding the five earthly relations of man, to be followed within another century by the bold teaching of Mencius that kings should rule in righteousness. In Asia it was 1,000 years afterwards that the Arabian Mohammed proclaimed himself as the authoritative prophet. There the God and Father of us all revealed Himself to Hebrew sage and prophet in the night vision and the angelic form and the still, small voice; and in Asia are the village in which was cradled and the great altar of the world on which was crucified the Son of God.