It was clear and cold. The hills of Moab were deep blue. They seemed
very near. In a low carriage that bore every mark of long service, drawn
by two thin dark horses and driven by an Arab in a dull brown Bedouin
coat, with the long, heavy head-dress falling over his shoulders and
protecting him from rain or sun, we drove out through the gate. Dark
eyes watched us curiously. The horses at first were swift of foot and
the carriage lurched and rolled down the steep grade of the valley of
Hinnom, past the former German colony, over the new bridge; then, losing
their enthusiasm, they climbed slowly. On a hillside the sheep were
feeding, but how they could find enough to sustain life on those bare
rocky slopes is hard to understand. Now we passed a flock following the
shepherd in his vari-colored coat down a steep incline and through a
valley which in the rainy season would be a rushing stream. We could
hear the lambs call, and now and then the shepherd’s reprimand to a
straying sheep. Over there were the fields of Boaz. How beautiful they
must have looked when the heavy sheaves of wheat were yellow in the sun.
The land of Moab seemed such a short distance away as we who had been
half-way round the world thought of distance, but to loyal, faithful,
loving Ruth those desert plains, rounded hills, and deep valleys meant
distance enough to separate her forever from the home and kindred she
must leave behind. The brave words came back to us: “Whither thou goest,
I will go; thy people shall be my people and thy God my God.” She
deserved the happiness she won out there in the fields as she followed
the reapers. As if agreeing with our unspoken thoughts our guide turned
and looked down at us. “Boaz, the owner of the field, married Ruth, the
Moabite girl. She was very beautiful,” he said.
The wind was bleak on the hilltop as it was that night centuries ago and
we were glad when we reached the protection of the low stone houses of
the village of Bethlehem. Such a tiny village! Nothing was left of the
glory of that other day when the busy tax-gatherers checked up the names
of the people and the keeper of the Inn hurried about trying in vain to
find room for his guests, when officers of the army in resplendent
uniform and civil officers proud and haughty made every Jewish pilgrim
conscious of the power of great Rome.
Nothing remains of the old inn or khan which was crowded on that night
to its very gates. Thankful indeed must both Joseph and Mary have been
for the protection of the cave with its great manger hewn out of the
rock. Over that spot to which they went so gratefully for shelter now
stands the Church of the Nativity. It is a simple beautiful church, but
the shrines within are garish indeed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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