We looked back at the little spot on the hill that was Bethlehem, where
that night was born the baby who turned the world upside down—the baby
who inspired the world’s best art, its finest literature, its greatest
music,—there in that little town with its stone houses, its irregular
streets, its simple people struggling with poverty! There was Bethlehem,
the city of David, the shepherd boy of the hills, strongest and best of
all the sons of Jesse, born to be a king and through his long line of
descendants at last to give to the world the King of kings.
When we stopped at the desk for our keys and to ask for a fire in the
little square stove in our room the clerk, in hesitating, careful
English, said, “You have found it cold out on the hills. You have seen
Bethlehem. It is a small place, Bethlehem. There is little there that a
man may do. Many travelers are disappointed by Bethlehem.”
“That depends upon how much one sees when he looks at Bethlehem,” I
thought. For me it held no disappointment.
That night in the great hall, around the stove that could not warm it,
men talked of the future of Palestine. A good friend, who understood
many languages and spoke Arabic fluently, interpreted much of the talk
for us. The present population of Palestine, Jews, Christians and
Mohammedans, is not even a million! Jews and Christians together number
perhaps less than one-third. The Mohammedans make up most of the
population and are found in every city and village. Arabic is the
language of the people, but in Jerusalem and in Jaffa most European
languages are freely spoken. The people who live in the towns are called
Madaniyeh, the villagers are the Fellaheen, and those who live in tents,
whom we called Bedouin, are Arabs. Despite its rocky, unpromising
hillsides and its deserts, Palestine is an agricultural country and that
must be its future, the men told each other. Wheat and barley, maize and
lentils, figs, watermelons, grapes, pomegranates, mulberries, apricots,
tomatoes, oranges, and olives could be easily raised. We heard glowing
descriptions of the Jaffa oranges and some sent later to our room
fulfilled all that had been said of them. There was much talk of the day
when the cultivation of raisins and the manufacture of olive oil would
make men rich; talk of the bananas that could be made to grow in large
quantities at Jericho and of the date palms that would make Gaza prosper
once more. There must be new plows, new machinery of many sorts. They
talked of the Zionist movement, but the talk was cut short by an Arab
who would not hear of it and, as some faces darkened and voices grew
louder, our friend rose and took us to our room. Sometimes in these days
a friendly talk about Palestine’s future ends in hot words and even
blows. The Arab does not want Palestine to be passed over into the hands
of the Jews. Many of the Jerusalem Jews express no pleasure whatever
over an influx of their brothers from many lands. The problems of
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