The sun was creeping on toward the horizon. We must turn back toward
Jerusalem. Every foot of the road the driver assured us he knew. He
would leave us in the Inn with the guide if we wished and send for us
early in the morning, but he would get back to Jerusalem. So would we
and he was content. He got all possible speed out of the car. It must
climb back over those thirty-five hundred feet we had come down such a
short time since.
We stopped a moment to peer at the lonely monastery where monks still
live on the Mount of Temptation and pray daily for all who are tempted.
The road which had been so lonely in the morning was stirring with life.
Groups of Arabs on horses and little swift-footed donkeys moved aside to
let us pass. Twice at a signal from a man riding ahead on horseback we
stopped to let a great caravan pass us. The leading camels wore gorgeous
trappings and tinkling bells. Once a camel without cargo, following in
dignified fashion behind two others, stood perfectly still, trembled,
then turned and ran ahead of us. We were amazed to see how swiftly he
ran. In vain the rider of the other camel shouted and called. Had it not
been for a friendly companion, who, coming down the hill, drove his own
camel straight across the path, spoke soothingly to the great beast
while a man on a donkey grasped his chain, he might have led us a chase
all the way to Jerusalem. They did not attempt to take their prisoner
past us in the road but turned off into a deep defile. When we looked
back from the hilltop they were again on the road moving on toward
Jericho. But most of the camels bearing their burdens merely sniffed and
passed us by in scorn.
It grew very cold as we reached the heights and the discarded robes and
coats were welcome. We could see shepherds and sheep seeking places of
shelter. Sometimes we caught glimpses of herds of goats reluctantly
following or plunging ahead silhouetted against a soft violet sky. The
sun set calmly and we missed the blazing glory. Suddenly it was night.
We were glad to be well past the scene of our morning’s mishap and
nearing Jerusalem. When we stopped at the door of the hotel, Jamil gave
a sigh of relief. “We have had a wonderful day,” we said. “We have had a
day of miracles,” was his answer in a solemn, devout tone. Both he and
the driver were most happy a moment later when they received their extra
fee.
Dinner was over for most of the guests, but we were given a warm corner
and more food than it would be possible to eat in many meals. We found
that the entire hotel had joined in Jamil’s sigh of relief when we
returned. There was a snapping wood fire in the little stove and hot
water bottles that made the great curtained beds seem more inviting. The
maid wished us “sleep without dreaming.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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