It is not a long walk to Bethany, a little over four miles they told us,
and we soon saw the low gray stone houses with their roofs of mud not
far ahead. As we approached the village, a veritable host of children
rushed to meet us, calling, with a score of accents, words supposed to
be English. At first we covered our ears then motioned to one child to
speak. We learned that they were offering their services as guides. The
moment we appeared to understand, the babel began again. “Mary and
Martha,” they called. “Simon-Lazarus, I will show.” When we spoke they
listened, but only for a moment. “You cannot all be our guides,” I said.
“If you all follow we will go back to Jerusalem and no one will have
_back-sheesh_—not one. We shall not look at the house of Mary and
Martha.” The tallest among them, a lad of fourteen, he told me
afterward, evidently repeated our words and he emphasized them with a
flourish of a stout cane which he carried. He showed us a soiled card
with a name written upon it which he said was his. We chose him and one
other guide, a little girl of six who had pointed to herself proudly,
saying, “I know—I know, Mary—Martha—Lazarus.” At a word from a villager
passing on his donkey the children scattered and it was a great relief.
Our young guide knew the method perfectly. Driving the dogs out of the
way with his cane, he led us up a steep path to the house of a man who
was a dwarf, badly crippled. He was to take us to the tomb of Lazarus
which he did, when we had paid the piastres he asked. He insisted upon
telling us the story before we went down the long winding stone steps
worn smooth by the passing of men’s feet for centuries. He told it in
very graphic fashion. We had only the dripping candles to light our way.
Following him, we could hear his call at each turn, “Have care! Have
care!” We decided not to make the entire descent of sixty steps but
contented ourselves with looking down from the fortieth step into the
black pit below. The air and sunshine were most welcome when we climbed
back and, giving more piastres for the shepherds’ slings the old dwarf
took from his pocket, we left him happy. We stood for a few moments at
the entrance to the tomb, thinking of all that spot had meant in the
centuries since it was recorded that, in warm human sympathy with the
suffering sisters, “Jesus wept.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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