The train, going twice each week down from Jerusalem and connecting with
the train for Cairo, had begun to carry both sleeping compartments and
dining car. We boarded it late that night at the foot of the long hill.
Before it was light, we had pulled out of the Jerusalem station and did
not get even one more glimpse of the city set on a hill. Instead when we
opened our eyes we were almost out of the Judean Hills and soon were
moving along through desert-rimmed lowlands. Then the desert itself lay
about us for hours, livened by occasional caravans that also were going
down to Egypt. Once an airplane flew over us and on into the glare of
the cloudless sky. We thought often of Joseph and Mary and the Child
fleeing through this lonely desert, to find in alien Egypt refuge from
the jealous wrath of the Roman king. How rapidly the world has learned
to cover time and space since then! How slow has been its progress
toward the kingdom the Child, whom Herod feared, had come to build. God
grant that now over the new paths through old Palestine messengers
bearing Good Will may come with all speed.
At Kantara we saw a company of Jews sent by the Zionists into Palestine.
They were a weary group, their faces bore marks of deep suffering. They
spoke Russian only, so we could not talk with them. They were going by
train to Haifa. We could only hope that their sorrows were over and that
in the land of their fathers they would find peace, a chance to forget,
shelter, food and a home. But we could not feel sure. The threatening
words we had heard from the lips of the Arab, the protests on the part
of the Jews that there was not land enough in Palestine capable of
bearing crops to give food to those who now struggled to live, the
bitter race hatreds and religious feuds very near the surface always
ready to burst into flame,—these things made us doubtful. The
transformation within a generation of this land of Palestine into a safe
and happy home for all the Jews of all the world seems but the futile
day dream of children when one faces conditions as they are. Many lands
have done many things to the Jew who once in simplicity worshiped the
God of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob and tried sincerely, not only to obey
the great commandments of Moses, but to teach them to his children.
Whether again they can gather from all lands and bring with them the
best who shall say? It may be that the fervent exhortations of rabbis,
the wisdom of judges, the training of educators, the science of
agriculturists, the modern irrigation miracles of engineers, the proper
placing of peoples, will make of Palestine a modern state where the
dream of economists, political and social, will one day be demonstrated
in action. The only spot we saw that seemed like the coming of the day
was Ramallah, the city that had to be taken by storm before the troops
could reach Jerusalem and visited by us to see the splendid work of the
schools of the Quakers who for long years have given learning and new
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