Harlem (New York, N.Y.); New York (N.Y.) -- Description and travel; New York (N.Y.) -- Social life and customs
There are some 1,500 licensed cabarets in the city and some 20,000
saloons. These are scattered over all five boroughs. In many
localities, especially those inhabited by foreign racial groups,
miniature Broadways have sprung up, reminiscent of main drags in
foreign countries.
a.--_Beer und Pretzels_
Clustered around Third Avenue and 86th Street in the heart of
Yorkville, is the German section. Here there are dozens of beer halls,
with waiters in native costume and fat, funny Brünnhilde sopranos
singing Viennese waltzes and Bavarian seidel-songs.
Before Hitler, Yorkville was a fad. Prohibition was only an English
word, untranslatable. The "Hoboken steam beer" was potent, spiked with
ether before your eyes by the waiter with an eye-dropper. One visitor
asked, "Hey--where's the operation that goes with this?"
We used to call the people we saw there "gemütlich," which means homey,
and talk about their quaint costumes and customs and placid way of life.
Later--when lists of Nazis were released--we saw many of these stolid
heinies on record. Though outwardly all Yankee light and love, the
district is still a hotbed of Nazi fanaticism, though you hear few talk
about it, even after a dozen beers.
The younger generation, of course, is solidly American and resentful of
the old folks' European ways.
Other but smaller German sections abound throughout the city, notably
in the Bronx and in Queens. In the latter borough were some of the
most rabid pro-Nazis in the country. Here some of the German spies who
landed from a submarine during the war were sheltered.
Many Lutheran churches in the Bronx and Queens conduct all their
religious services in the German tongue.
A smaller and older German colony survives on the Manhattan East Side,
between 14th and 23rd Streets. These are no newcomers; some of their
restaurants trace back to the days when liberty-loving Germans escaped
from Prussian feudalism in 1848.
One of the most famous eating places in the world and one of the oldest
in New York is Luchow's, at 14th Street and Irving Place. Here, in
several spacious rooms, occupying a block, is a memory of gracious,
graceful days now unfortunately gone forever.
Eating is an art at Luchow's, undisturbed by raucous talk or jive.
Instead, there is the pleasing music of a three-piece stringed
aggregation which plays waltzes and operas and drinking songs. Luchow's
features 14 different kinds of beer on draught and was the first
American restaurant to obtain genuine Rhine wine and Pilsener after the
war.
Throughout the years its guests have been the New York great, leaders
of art, literature, finance and politics. George Jean Nathan and Henry
Mencken eat there once a week, a practice they began almost a half
century ago with Huneker, the great critic.
The menu is heavy with rich German dishes; the decor is strictly
Teutonic. But the present owner of Luchow's is a Swede from Washington.
b.--_Borscht and Blintzes_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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