New Zealand -- Description and travel; New Zealand -- History
Aorangi, with its 12,349 feet, exceeds the peak of Teneriffe by 159
feet. It is the highest point in our islands, for Mount Tasman, its
neighbour, which comes second, fails to equal it by 874 feet. Only
two or three other summits surpass 11,000 feet, and the number which
attain to anything over 10,000 is not great. From the south-west,
Aorangi, with the ridge attached to it, resembles the high-pitched
roof of a Gothic church with a broad, massive spire standing up from
the northern end. When, under strong sunlight, the ice glitters on the
steep crags, and the snow-fields, unearthly in their purity, contrast
with the green tint of the crawling glaciers, the great mountain is a
spectacle worthy of its fame. Yet high and shapely as it is, and
worthy of its name, Cloud-in-the-Heavens, it is not the most beautiful
mountain in the islands. That honour may be claimed by Egmont, just
as Tongariro may demand precedence as the venerated centre of Maori
reverence and legend. Nor, formidable as Aorangi looks, is it, I should
imagine, as impracticable as one or two summits farther south, notably
Mount Balloon. However, unlike Kosciusko in Australia, it is a truly
imposing height, and worthy of its premier place. With it the story
of New Zealand alpine-climbing has been bound up for a quarter of a
century, and such romance as that story has to show is chiefly found
in attempts, successful and unsuccessful, to reach the topmost point
of Aorangi. Canterbury had been settled for thirty-two years before
the first of these was made. For the low snow-line, great cliffs, and
enormous glaciers of the Southern Alps have their especial cause of
origin. They bespeak an extraordinary steepness in the rock faces, and
a boisterous climate with rapid and baffling changes of temperature.
Not a climber or explorer amongst them but has been beaten back at
times by tempests, or held a prisoner for many hours, listening
through a sleepless night to the howling of north-west or south-west
wind--lucky if he is not drenched to the skin by rain or flood. As for
the temperature, an observer once noted a fall of fifty-three degrees
in a few hours. On the snow-fields the hot sun blisters the skin of
your face and neck, and even at a lower level makes a heavy coat an
intolerable burden; but the same coat--flung impatiently on the ground
and left there--may be picked up next morning frozen as stiff as a
board. These extremes of heat and cold, these sudden and furious gales,
are partly, I imagine, the cause of the loose and rotten state of much
of the rock-surface, of the incessant falls of stones, ice-blocks, and
snow, and of the number and size of the avalanches. At any rate, the
higher alps showed a front which, to ordinary dwellers on our plains,
seemed terrific, and which even gave pause to mountain-climbers of
some Swiss experience. So even von Haast’s book did not do much more
than increase the number of visitors to the more accessible glaciers
and sub-alpine valleys.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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