New Zealand -- Description and travel; New Zealand -- History
The spirit of mountaineering lay dormant year
after year, and it was not until 1882 that an unexpected invader from
Europe delivered the sudden and successful stroke that awoke it. The
raider was Mr. Green, an Irish clergyman, who, with two Swiss guides,
Boss and Kaufmann, landed in the autumn of 1882. His object was the
ascent of Aorangi; he had crossed the world to make it. He found our
inner mountains just as Nature had left them, and, before beginning
his climb, had to leave human life behind, and camp at the foot of the
mountain with so much of the resources of civilisation as he could take
with him. One of his first encounters with a New Zealand river in a
hurry ended in the loss of his light cart, which was washed away. Its
wrecked and stranded remains lay for years in the river-bed a battered
relic of a notable expedition. To cap his troubles, a pack-horse
carrying flour, tea, sugar, and spare clothing, coolly lay down when
fording a shallow torrent, and rolled on its back--and therefore on
its pack--in the rapid water. Ten days of preliminary tramping and
clambering, during which five separate camps were formed, only carried
the party with their provisions and apparatus to a height of less
than 4000 feet above the sea. They had toiled over moraine boulders,
been entangled in dense and prickly scrubs, and once driven back by a
fierce north-wester. On the other hand the scenery was glorious and
the air exhilarating. Nothing round them seemed tame except the wild
birds. Keas, wekas, and blue ducks were as confiding and fearless as
our birds are wont to be till man has taught them distrust and terror.
Among these the Swiss obtained the raw material of a supper almost
as easily as in a farmyard. On the 25th of February the final ascent
was begun. But Aorangi did not yield at the first summons. Days were
consumed in futile attempts from the south and east. On their first
day they were checked by finding themselves on a crumbling knife-like
ridge, from which protruded spines of rock that shook beneath their
tread. A kick, so it seemed, would have sent the surface into the abyss
on either side. The bridge that leads to the Mahometan paradise could
not be a more fearful passage. Two days later they were baffled on the
east side by walls of rock from which even Boss and Kaufmann turned
hopelessly away. It was not until March 2, after spending a night above
the clouds, that they hit upon a new glacier, the Linda, over which
they found a winding route to the north-eastern ridge which joins
Cook to Tasman. The day’s work was long and severe, and until late in
the afternoon the issue was doubtful. A gale burst upon them from the
north-west, and they had to go on through curling mists and a wind that
chilled them to the bone. It was six o’clock in the evening when they
found themselves standing on the icy scalp of the obstinate mountain,
and even then they did not attain the highest point. There was not a
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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